21212

Elegant luxury and magical food with a refreshing smattering of madcap fun, in the classy heart of Georgian Edinburgh

The name, the lipstick-red reception desk, and the '60s Doctor Who-style lettering on the front of this magnificent 4-storey Georgian townhouse: all hints that you’re not in just another plush (but staid) Edinburgh hotel. Chef Paul Kitching, who owns and runs 21212 with his partner Katie, has a mischievous sense of fun, which infuses both his rooms and restaurant. Conformist eyebrows may furrow, but the personal and friendly service, comfy contemporary décor and ground-breaking food are hard to fault.

The 4 stylish suites, with their fabulous bed linen, state-of-the-art bathrooms and dreamy views over the city rooftops, are amazing. The draw for most, however, is Paul’s flair in the kitchen, which won him a Michelin star within 8 months of opening. It’s in the hotel’s opulent restaurant that you’ll learn the significance of the name: there are just 2 starters, 1 soup, 2 mains, 1 cheese plate and 2 desserts. Simplicity replaces the clutter of the à la carte. But simplicity doesn’t mean boring - with no 2 mouthfuls the same, the taste storm has just begun.

Highs

• One of the country’s most exciting chefs/restaurants
• The location: at the end of the world’s longest, and arguably most handsome, Georgian crescent, and bang in the centre of Edinburgh’s New Town
• The opulent décor is deliciously over the top
• The views. On a fine day you can even see the Firth of Forth from 2 of the suites
• For non-parents, the fact that it's mainly child-free could be a plus

Lows

• If your idea of a good dinner is steak and chips - or a wide choice of dishes - this place is not for you
• The toast from factory-made sliced bread at breakfast was a bit of a comedown after the previous evening’s culinary fireworks, but the rest of breakfast was lovely
• Parking nearby is all metred, though it’s free overnight and all weekend
• No lift and lots of stairs