4 Rivers Floating Lodge

No roads, no neighbours, just nature at this simple yet stylish 12-tented lodge that floats on the crook of southwest Cambodia’s Tatai River

Cambodia’s southern coast is an area in development, with plenty of wild rainforest, waterfalls and beaches to be discovered by adventurous travellers. Below the Cardomom Mountains, and about 20 minutes by road from border town Koh Kong, 'glamping' at this floating lodge is an exercise in total seclusion and peace. The only way in is by boat: 10 minutes of bird spotting until you round a bend and suddenly the white tents of 4 Rivers Floating Lodge come into view, contrasting with the greenery on either side of the glassy-calm water. You alight onto the central terrace, between the 2 flanks of 6 tents and in front of the central restaurant, and probably won't set foot on solid ground again for the rest of your stay.

Basking in the sun, the whole 800 sq.m resort can be seen from this central spot, making it an intimate place. Two salas provide alfresco shade, and there’s a living room slash library, but expect to spend most of your time relaxing a deux in your tent or on your sundeck. Ideal for couples, each has double or twin beds, and a bathroom with wooden Hinoki tub. But bathing is best done by stepping down the ladder from your deck, straight into the Tatai River - the largest freshwater pool in the world.

Highs

• There’s little noise apart from the sounds of fish coming up for air, birds wheeling overhead and the breeze in the trees
• Exploring is done by kayak; head up or down river in your eco-friendly steed, quietly floating and observing, or get some exercise by paddling against the current
• Quietly stylish and surprisingly luxurious tents with rattan furniture, flat-screen TVs, DVD players and air con
• Friendly, very attentive staff
• The nearby waterfall’s jets and pools are the resort’s spa playground. Return at dusk to witness clouds of fireflies

Lows

• In some areas of the resort you hear the generator
• During October the river water gets brackish and cloudy; it’s not unclean, although it may appear that way, and it's still safe to swim
• There's no phone coverage - a high for some
• At certain times of year you'll need insect repellent
• Some feel the food, drinks and excursions are a bit overpriced, but all provisions have to be boated in