Al Moudira Hotel

A sublime hotel on Luxor’s west bank with colourful architecture, flourishing gardens, stately rooms and an enormous pool

As you stroll around the lush courtyards, knock back your cocktails in the sitting-room bar, soak up the sun on the terrace by the pool or retreat to your splendidly enormous room, do remember that this small empire of beautiful things was completely reclaimed from the desert. Al Moudira is not simply the best hotel in Luxor, it’s one of the best in Egypt; an architectural pleasure dome of vaulted ceilings, Pharaonic murals, wooden latticework and regal arches. It appears to be ancient, but it’s not yet ten years old. Ten years ago, it was nothing but sand.

Wander about and it’s easy to imagine you’re strolling through a small palace. You enter through an interior courtyard, the hub of the hotel. Pillars soar, bougainvillea roams and you can eat here throughout the day, though the domed restaurant is equally serene. As for the 40 rooms - well, the smallest is huge, so take it from there. Expect high domed ceilings (occasionally in your bathroom, too), crisp white linen, beautiful tiles on every floor, warm colours spread across each wall. It is a remarkably peaceful place, too. One not to miss.

Highs

• Everywhere you go, something beautiful passes your eye
• The big pool - perfect after a hot morning in the Valley of the Kings
• The food is excellent, the best we ate in Egypt
• Rooms are enormous and lavishly decorated in Moorish style
• How often do you get a domed ceiling in a vast bathroom?

Lows

• You’re about 6km south of Luxor, so you’ll need taxis to get into town, or to cross the Nile by ferry boat
• Like all design hotels it comes with a hefty price tag, but you get a lot for your money
• If you're judging by international 5* standards, you might find service a little slow
• You can slip easily on the rugs in the bedrooms, which slide about on the floor tiles