Alegria Villas

Eating

All 3 villas have kitchens for self-catering. Those in Villa Adobe and Villa Palma are equipped with a fridge, an oven and a 4-ring hob. Other gadgets include a smoothie-maker, a coffee machine and a water dispenser. Adobe's kitchen opens to a large dining terrace, Palma's to a beautiful thatch-shaded patio with spectacular views of the lagoon and ocean, leading to a patch of private garden. Casa del Lago's kitchen includes a full stainless steel stove with an oven, a dishwasher and a fridge. All kitchens are fully stocked with dishes, glasses, pots and pans.

If you love fish, it doesn't get fresher than straight from the local boats. Between 1pm and 3pm the fishermen return in their panga boats to Punta Lobos, a beach a couple of kilometres out of town, with the catch of the day.

As for eating out, you're spoiled for choice: Todos Santos is blessed with an unusual number of good places to eat. For tacos, burritos and papas rellenas (stuffed potatoes) try the taco stand on the main street, next to the El Tecolote bookshop. For sandwiches, soups, an assortment of Mexican dishes, breads, muffins, cakes and great coffee there's Caffe Todos Santos (calle Centenario 33). If you love pizza, they come oven-fired at Il Giardino on calle Degollado.

But for the best food in town - matched by charming Italian service - seek out the Cafe Santa Fe (calle Centenario 4). Sit outside and watch hummingbirds hover as you dine on swordfish carpaccio, lobster ravioli, rabbit in wine, mango sorbet and warm focaccia. It's Italian-run but does Mexican dishes too.

Even closer to home, a minute's walk away with great views over the lagoon, is La Poza, a small posada hotel that serves delicious organic food - Mexican with a touch of fusion. They do lunch and dinner 6 days a week.