Anantara Golden Triangle

Laid-back, luxurious resort in the heart of the mysterious Golden Triangle – where Thailand, Laos and Burma meet – with an award-winning elephant camp

This exotic, stylish and supremely cosseting hotel is one of the best 5-star resorts in Asia, easily up there with the Amans and One&Onlys in terms of frangipani garlands, cold flannels and staff-to-rooms ratio (198:77). But 2 things make it truly distinctive.

One is its location: at the confluence of the Mekong and Ruak rivers, in Thailand but only a mile from Burma and Laos. 30 years ago, this was serious no-go territory: the Golden Triangle produced most of the world’s opium and was ruled by druglords. Since then, a concerted clean-up, initiated by the Thai royal family, has opened the region to visitors, who are drawn as much by its mysterious past – this was Lanna Thai, “Kingdom of a Million Rice Fields” – as its mountainous and riverine landscapes. The second distinction is an elephant camp, where beasts rescued from the streets of Chiang Mai and Bangkok now offer rides through the forest; braver guests can even train as mahouts. It's such a hit that 30% of guests, from honeymooners to families, come principally to spend time with these gentle giants.

Highs

• The award-winning elephant camp, which sets standards in mahout training and elephant conservation around the world
• The option of private dining, with a chef cooking to order, at a table set in a rice paddy, or on a ridge with views over the entire Golden Triangle
• The infinity pool, which seems to merge into the Mekong valley
• The dramatic architecture and idyllic gardens, pools and terraces, plus 160 acres of grassland, riverbank and bamboo forest, which guests can explore on foot, bike or elephant

Lows

• For all its striking design, lovely location, creature comforts and excellent service, this is very much a resort, and the scale of the place won’t appeal to those who like their hotels small, quirky and homespun
• Rates look terrifyingly expensive - but they do include all meals and activities
• In-room internet access is expensive and, in my case, glitch-prone
• Yoga classes, when not held on the terrace, happen in a rather functional, unconducive ballroom