Anjuna & North Goa
Why go?
Anjuna, the ledgendary hippy hangout favoured by the '90s 'ravers',
is now quieter and cleaner - except for Wednesdays, when hundreds
flock in for the famous flea market. You'll find everything here -
Tibetan curios, African musical instruments, silver jewellery,
traditional Rajasthani clothing, tie-dye t-shirts,
psychadelic-coloured sarongs, Trance music and a real mix of
people. Full moon days usually mean beach parties but, in recent
years, strict measures by the local authorities have tamed
nightlife. There are a handful of beach cafés; the Shore
Bar draws the biggest dope-smoking crowd on Wednesdays. Hide
away in comfort and style at The Hobbit, or further
inland at colonial houses Siolim House and Noi
Varo or the intimate and eclectic guesthouse Sunbeam. If
you're here for a yoga experience though, look no further than the
fantastic Yogamagic Eco Retreat.
Vagator, just north of Anjuna, is a small village with basic
accommodation and a good beach, but which gets rather overrun by
tour groups during the day.
Arambol used to be one of north Goa's more remote and beautiful
beaches, distinguished by the freshwater lake that almost reaches
the sea. However, a large increase in tourism (especially
backpackers) means that the main beach tends to get a bit crowded
and dirty now. Accommodation is basic but there are lively beach
hut cafés. Take the coastal path north of the beach over the
headland to reach Keri, a wonderful stretch of white sand.
For a more unspoilt spot, head to the beach at Mandrem, where you
can stay in one of the wonderful Otter Creek Tents, a
private house, playful thatched igloos or small
villas (each sleeping 4-6) tucked inside a coconut grove
right by the sea. Nearby is the cool, calm and zen-like
Kaju Varo.
To reach Arambol, Mandrem and other places on the northern coast,
take the new bridge across from Siolim. Regular buses also go from
Panjim (taking 1 hour and 45 minutes) and Mapusa.
Baga, Calungute, Candolim and Fort Aguada are a string of almost
uninterrupted beaches, and they represent Goa's most developed
stretch of coast. They're lively, popular with British package
tourists and have plenty of restaurants and facilities - if this
sounds like your scene, check out this slick villa
sleeping 10. An antidote to all this is Kerkar Retreat
where you'll gain an insight into Indian arts and music. Further to
the south is Coco Shambhala, a collection of villas in
lush tropical grounds.
If you'd prefer to be inland, head for the delightful fishing
village of Britona, where a 17th-century customs warehouse has been
refurbed into a guesthouse, or to the banks of the
Chapora river, where you'll find a sophisticated and contemporary
retreat.