Arun Residence
Bangkok, Thailand
A riverside hideaway with views of the Temple of Dawn from every room, in the middle of a working Chinese community
This hideaway in a lovingly restored, end-of-the-row 1920s
shophouse is set among the ramshackle godowns (storehouse) and
industrious to-ings and froi-ings of a working Chinese community on
the rim of the Chao Phraya River. Breathtaking views of Wat Arun
(the Temple of Dawn) are to be had from each of its 6
rooms – and delicious food to boot. The owners, the
glamorous Dr Piyanuch and her friends, stress a friendly, laid-back
atmosphere, and at weekends can often be found enjoying the breeze
and a glass of wine in their rooftop bar.
Its perfect location makes this a real find for young and
young-at-heart couples looking for a taste of the real Thailand
while they explore the sights of Old Bangkok: Wat Pho, the temple
of the reclining Buddha, is just across the street from the end of
the alley, and the Grand Palace 100 metres away. What it lacks in
ostentatious luxury, Arun Residence makes up for tenfold in charm,
character and attention to detail (not to mention the most
affordable river views in the city).
Reviewed by Nicolas Buchele
Last updated 10 October 2011
Highs
- The view, the view: bathed in gold all night, the spires of Wat Arun seem to float on the black waters, while Navy headquarters next door spells out messages in red illuminated print into the dark. By day, watch bona fide river traffic jams as ferries compete to dock at the pier opposite
- Convenience: you literally can’t stay any closer to the sights of Old Bangkok
- Charm: true love has gone into converting the building – and you’ll be doing your bit for preserving a nook of the endangered old city
Lows
- No pool: traipsing around the temples in the sticky heat all day is sweaty work. A refreshing dip would be nice, but the evening breeze will have to do
- City noise: the Chao Phraya is a busy working river that goes to sleep early but wakes up early too. Then again, who comes to Bangkok for the peace and quiet?
- Hard to find: insist the driver keeps following the river after the flower market, and keep an eye out for the alley
- Inconvenient for the bright lights of downtown: roads there are clogged from 5 to 9 pm (later at night, it’s not a problem)
Elegant wooden house on the Chao Praya river with views of the 19th-century Temple of Dawn...
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