Awasi

Intimate rustic-luxe oasis in Chile’s most dramatic desert, with adobe cabanas, sociable pool patio and tailormade private excursions

For thousands of years, San Pedro de Atacama has provided respite for travellers crossing the world’s driest desert. Today it’s the jumping-off point for tours of a startling geological collage of volcanoes, salt flats, turquoise lagoons, boiling geysers and Sahara-like dunes that awes even the most cosmopolitan traveller.

Quechua for 'home,' Awasi offers an authentic and singularly personal welcome. Eight cabanas (5 circular and 3 rectangular) with pointed thatched roofs mimic the neighbouring historic village, Aldea de Tulor. Meals served on the patio introduce surprising local flavours. Your private guide is ready to take you off-road to places tourists haven’t discovered. While the local wildlife, magical sunsets and nightly riot of stars will make you feel small, at Awasi you’re anything but insignificant. Drop your dusty hiking boots in the basket by your door to be cleaned. Savour a glass of Chilean Carménère by a poolside fireplace. Drift to sleep in a kingsize bed. This is the smallest and most intimate luxury lodge in San Pedro, and our favourite.

Highs

• The grounds: landscaped paths connect cabanas to a sprawling 'living-room' patio with candle-lit conversation areas, fireplaces, an open bar/kitchen and a pool
• Creature comforts: kingsize beds, WiFi, free lemon-mint lip balm and acclimatizing chachacoma tea
• Authentic architecture: brea (hollow twig) lampshades, walls of adobe and smooth San Pedro River stones
• Distinctive cuisine fusing local herbs, grains and fruits; or you can walk to San Pedro's restaurants
• Fantastic bespoke outings, from llama caravans to river hikes: for each couple, a multilingual guide and 4x4 GPS-fitted jeep await (no coach trips here!)

Lows

• It looks frighteningly expensive - but bear in mind that rates include all meals, drinks, private excursions and transfers from the local airport
• Dusty San Pedro is very much a tourist town with cheap souvenirs, restaurant touts and crowds during summer, but you can escape the tack at Awasi
• The altitude (2450m/8000ft) may cause mountain sickness (headache, nausea), while the intense sunlight and arid desert air take their toll on hair, skin and sinuses
• There are no TVs or DVDs. Nature provides the drama here