Babylonstoren

A stunning Winelands farm: organic gardens, a remarkable restaurant and unique cottages blending history with contemporary design

A 45-minute drive east of Cape Town, near the town of Paarl, you turn down a dirt track, past rows of vines, and park up. A golf buggy comes to take your luggage as you stroll towards reception, where you're met with a friendly “Howzit?”. The gnarled, rather crumpled Simonsberg Mountain is away to the right, behind a converted 1692 Cape Dutch farmhouse and row of whitewashed old workers’ cottages that have been transformed very, very tastefully into accommodation.

Stepping over a small stream, you enter your cottage and emit a “Wow” - seriously, you will. The elegant interiors looks like they've come straight from the pages of a glossy style mag, but that's not surprising: owner Karen Roos was formerly editor of South African Elle Decoration.

In front lies a beautifully landscaped 8-hectare garden, with giant orange pumpkins, yellow citrus orchards, scented herb beds, a block of mulberries, and bright vegetables in every hue. Wander in and pick your own fruit, or veggies and herbs if you're here to self-cater; some cottages have kitchens, but the restaurant's the main event. Sublime cuisine with beautifully colour-coded dishes is hard to beat. Later, head to the spa, borrow a mountain bike for a short spin around the farm, and watch the sunset with drink in hand from the top of the small hill nearby. This is what a holiday is really all about.

Highs

• The stunning suites: vintage four-poster beds, angle-poise lamps and rolltop bathtubs, all wrapped in a graceful, all-white cocoon
• The food in the restaurant, Babel, is simply fantastic. Straight-from-the-garden ingredients are spun into colourful plates (picture a 'yellow salad' with butternut squash, corn and papaya), meat is organic, and puddings are a treat
• Friendly, laid-back staff. Ask for a guided tour of the amazing gardens
• The beautiful setting and the peace - it's perfect for a romantic or restorative break, though it's popular with families, too
• It seems remote but Paarl is a 10-minute drive away, there are vineyards on the doorstep, and you're only 15 minutes from Franschhoek with its world-class restaurants

Lows

• The pool is constructed from a converted water tank - cool and eco, yes, but not as stylish as the rest of the hotel
• The restaurant is closed in the evenings until November 2011 - from then it will open 2 nights a week - but the hotel can create personalised options for eating; just ask
• Unless you want to eat in every night or self-cater, you'll need to drive out for dinner or pay for a taxi
• It's expensive, especially in high season. But it's so unusual and would make a really great stay as part of a honeymoon or special occasion