Bairro Alto Hotel

Lisbon’s loveliest luxury hotel is on the arty side of town with a gorgeous roof terrace giving long views over the river

The sixth-floor terraced bar is reason enough to check into Lisbon’s loveliest hotel. You can sink into sofas or wicker armchairs, order a cocktail or a glass of champagne, then gaze down over terracotta rooftops on the mighty Tejo passing serenely below. This is a seriously spoiling place: a proper hotel in the grand tradition with a tiled entrance hall, a funky bar, a swanky restaurant and porters who swoop on your luggage. If the design is modern, then the inspiration is classical – and the architecture of the 1845 building is on show as much as its décor. The hotel started life as the Grand Hotel of Europe (Sarah Bernhardt once stayed). It became a favourite haunt for writers and artists and the district remains Lisbon’s artistic soul.

Step out into the square and you dive into the groovy heart of town. Jump on the Number 28 tram and rattle up to the castle, stroll into town past the coffee shops of Rua Garrett. After a hard day’s fun, come back to find super-comfy rooms that pack a punch: high ceilings, rich fabrics, half-panelled walls and exceptional bathrooms. Don’t miss it.

Highs

• The terraced bar on the sixth floor for its succulent sofas and fabulous views
• Bedrooms and bathrooms deliver the luxury their price demands
• Friendly staff are terrifically helpful and go the extra mile
• At weekends DJs in the bar filled with lightboxes bring in the cool crowd
• You’re nicely central in a neighbourhood that’s bursting with life, wander the district’s backstreets and do a bit of window shopping

Lows

• The hotel lacks a big central sitting room, a place to watch hotel life go by
• Sugar at breakfast comes in sachets, but this, we’re told, is Portuguese law