Bamurru Plains
near Kakadu, Northern Territory, Australia
Eco-friendly bungalows infused with African-safari style on a remote property in the tropical Top End: think barefoot luxury on a buffalo station
Getting here is no easy feat. You fly into Darwin, then either jump
in a chartered 5-seat Cessna to a remote airfield followed by a
bumpy 20-minute Land Cruiser transfer through the bush; or you do
it yourself and drive the 3 hours from Darwin along roads of
dwindling quality - first sealed, then dirt, then into the middle
of nowhere. But the remoteness of this eco-retreat - it sits on a
300 sq.km. farm called Swim Creek Station at the edge of Kakadu -
is very much part of its appeal. It's a place to switch off, big
time.
Once at Bamurru, you'll be mighty glad you came. You’re
greeted with fragrant face towels and a cooling drink, then go
bouncing through the bush in the back of a 4WD on a
wildlife-spotting safari. Come sunset, your guide slows down on a
track that turns out to be the wall of the floodplain - during the
wet season, this dry land transforms into a lake on which airboats
dock. Here you can watch the wallabies and water buffalo graze in
the golden afternoon light, and help yourself to icy beers. An hour
later, as the sun goes down, you’re sipping smooth Australian
wines and savouring delicate canapés on the deck of the
lodge.
Throughout your stay, these luxurious touches abound. It’s
like the best of African safari lodges transported into the outback
- with crocs instead of zebras and water buffalo replacing hippos.
The attention to detail in the 9 quirky bush-style
bungalows - very eco-minimalist and open-sided (just nets
separate you from the wildlife) - brings a luxury of its own.
Provided you come prepared for this, you won’t miss the
mini-bar or spa bath one bit. Who needs a flat screen TV or WiFi
when you get a 180-degree view from your bed, with binos and
guidebooks supplied?
Reviewed by Lara Dunston
Last updated 11 January 2012
Highs
- Abundant birdlife and wildlife includes plenty of water buffalos, wallabies, huge crocs, wild boar, brumbies and dingoes
- Plenty to do besides classic safari drives: bird-watching, bushwalks, exhilarating air boat rides, scenic helicopter flights - all with capable and fun guides
- Stunning landscapes – lush floodplains, monsoonal forests, savannah woodland, billabongs blanketed with waterlillies, and spooky freshwater mangroves
- Enormous, imaginative bush bathrooms with corrugated iron walls and tree trunks for soap holders – and fragrant natural soaps too!
- Imaginative "bush tucker" cuisine using local ingredients, with an open bar boasting delicious Australian wines, including some rarities
Lows
- Couples seeking romance might not like the communal dining
- The safari-style suites are made for sleeping, with little else other than the bed: no comfy sofas or hammocks for chilling out, although there are sofas in the main lodge
- While the infinity pool is welcome after a sticky day of wildlife spotting, it could be larger
- The Cessna flight from Darwin is not cheap; and, once in your room, air-conditioning costs extra (humidity here can be fierce)
