Baoussala

A home with a big heart, hidden away in a eucalyptus grove near Essaouira - a genuine taste of that fabled real Morocco

Head south from Essaouira towards the surfing beaches of Sidi Kaouki, then cut seawards along a dusty track past errant donkeys, tiny farmsteads and waving children. Arriving at Baoussala will become a treasured memory, as will meeting Dominique and her extended Moroccan family.

You’d never guess the pinky-salmon, crenellated walls of this kasbah-inspired hideaway are just a decade old: antique window grilles, mature trees and a walled garden with rambling jasmines, roses and bougainvilleas suggest a much older building. The 6 bedrooms and suites, wrapping round an intimate courtyard, have been decorated with masses of TLC by Dominique, whose artistic sensitivity permeates every corner.
This delightful guesthouse has the feel of home and sanctum, with an accent on authenticity and simplicity. Come to make new Moroccan friends, eat wholesome food, walk barefoot through dunes and enjoy that sense of being far away from the mundane.

Highs

• Dominique is one of the few ex-pats we met living in Morocco who treats her staff as if they were family
• There are masses of intimate areas for chilling out - in the courtyard, by the pool and in the gardens
• The exceptional cooking is of the slow variety, with a genuine commitment to using only fresh, local produce
• The 6 bedrooms and suites are quiet and comfortable and all have recently been given a thorough makeover
• Bright colours, eye-catching fabrics and stacks of paintings by local artists impart a cosy vibe throughout the house

Lows

• You're not quite on the beach, which is 5km away through the dunes, nor in Essaouira, which is 9km away - but the rural setting is magically tranquil
• The 3km track leading to the house is bumpy and would be an ordeal after rain
• The remoteness of Baoussala means that you'll probably eat in, but the food is really excellent and fairly priced, too
• It's not for the animal-shy, as Dominique’s dog and cat are an integral part of the scene