Birkenhead House

Funky art, palatial bedrooms and gourmet dining at one of South Africa's most seductive oceanside hotels

At the eastern end of Hermanus, a rocky promontory pushes out between 2 sandy coves into the deep waters of Walker Bay. Birkenhead House straddles this extraordinary viewing point, dropping down on several levels towards a dining terrace and an infinity pool whose water seems to merge with that of the ocean beyond. Seagulls drift by, surfers cut through the breakers, and for several months every year southern right whales breach just yards from the shore. This is a mesmerisingly beautiful part of the Cape.

Liz Biden (the decorative savant behind La Residence) pulled off an amazing double act by making what's inside as visually spoiling as what lies beyond. A whimsical pick-and-mix of contemporary art, floors of travertine marble, chinoiserie touches, eye-catching chandeliers and Persian rugs create an eclectic mood which is brilliantly boudoir-by-the-sea. Whilst gourmet dining, impeccable service and a sumptuous spa gild the lily of Hermanus' most remarkable boutique hotel.

Highs

• A vibe that is intimate, spoiling and cosseted: you couldn't fail but feel happy to be here
• An unforgettable oceanside position: think sea, sky, sunsets, sounds of the ocean and, in season, whales!
• Top gourmet cuisine presented with oodles of style by slick, competent and easy-mannered staff
• Stacks of interesting art work by some of South Africa's best known contemporary painters
• Birkenhead House is both romantic and seductive: we'd struggle to think of a more perfect place for loving it up

Lows

• Bedrooms run away from the ocean in 3 tiers meaning that some (Standard Rooms) miss out on sea views, while top-floor rooms share balconies with just a see-through trellis for privacy
• You'll want to stay at least 2 or 3 nights so be prepared to part with a fair amount of moolah (though rates are full board and include excellent house wines)
• You're 5km out of Hermanus so you'll need a car to get around - though the hotel does offer a complimentary shuttle to and from Hermanus
• The pools aren't huge and are unheated
• They also own an adjacent 5-room villa which, while still sumptuous, lacks the wow factor and those straight-to-sea views (it's an option if you're coming with kids though)