Ca della Corte

Friendly B&B in a palazzo with dazzling chandeliers, plus canalside apartments for 2-7 so you can live like a local

Venice has so many museums, monuments and milling masses that it’s easy to feel like a cog in a tourist machine. But not at Ca’ della Corte. Here, in the 16th-century palazzo of Caterina and Piero and their 3 children, you are welcomed as an old friend, and shown to a room overlooking tranquil gardens which feel a million miles from San Marco.

You’ll be given a detailed city map and genuinely useful advice from manager Margaret, a Canadian who came to Venice for love 25 years ago and never left; you can make yourself a tea or coffee, chat with other guests on the roof terrace, even play their grand piano.

If you need a bit more space and independence, the family also lease some apartments in various buildings nearby. You get more space for your money, the privilege of your own front door key, and the luxury of leaving the cleaning to someone else. The larger flats are perfect for families or small groups, while the lower floor of the little house (a rarity in Venice), Henry's Haven, will appeal to those with limited mobility.

Highs

• Ideal location: 4 minutes' walk from Piazzale Roma (bus / car terminus) but in a quiet residential quarter with plenty of cafés and restaurants
• The décor is fun and original, from the bright bedspreads to the giant glass chandelier over the breakfast table and the shabby-chic apartments
• The palazzo apartment has fantastic views - throw open the shutters on a summer’s night to hear gondolier singing arias on the canals
• Caterina can arrange anything with a bit of advance notice, from small music concerts to the hire of neighbouring buildings for exhibitions, events and workshops
• Great for families with young children: free cots, strollers etc (but watch the stairs)

Lows

• It’s hard to find - you'll get a map when you book through i-escape - and don't confuse it with Casa della Corte near San Marco Square
• The standard rooms in the palazzo are nothing special, but still clean and comfy
• The apartment bathrooms are rather old-fashioned and the kitchens are lacking in basic utensils
• Previous reports mentioned ghastly pre-wrapped breakfasts; you can now take a ticket and eat in a nearby bar instead
• Those staying in apartments may feel a bit left to their own devices; you have to come up to the B&B for any concierge service or suggestions on what to do