Cap Maison

Fun, funky and sociable north-coast resort with 49 rooms, a divinely inspired chef and a real holiday feel

Until recently, St Lucia’s north-west coastal strip has been known for its all-inclusive complexes, shared ownership homes and duty-free shops. Cap Maison reverses the trend. Set in lush tropical gardens within Cap Estate, a former 1,500 acre sugar plantation 5 km outside Rodney Bay, this elegant boutique hotel marks a real return to the romantic Caribbean landmark hotels of bygone decades, but with a funkier feel and a healthy smattering of British irony.

The mood is sociable - it’s somewhere where guests can mix and make friends, and point out frigate birds and Martinique in the distance - but it caters to romantic seclusion too, and is popular with honeymooners and those looking to propose in style. It’s a dress-up-for-dinner kind of place, a cocktail place, a welcoming-glass-of-champagne kind of a place.

Cap was one of those good ideas thought up after a particularly fine dinner which actually came to pass. Built by the Gobat family to resemble a Castilian village, small blocks of white-walled 2- and 3-storey villas are separated by cool passages with barrelled ceilings, wine cellars, courtyards, pools, Ali Baba urns, lawns and gazebos. The top suites in each are huge and have seductive twists: jacuzzis, private pools and double loungers on the rooftop that are so cosy we spent a night lying on our backs under the stars, trying to name the constellations.

Highs

• Rooms range from the smart and simple to the obscenely decadent; splash out on a Suite
• Enthusiastic, friendly staff balance respect with camaraderie, an attitude that comes from the top down
• Sociable, house-party feel (you’ll be invited to meet other guests over drinks)
• Fab food: Craig Jones, the white Welsh Rastafarian vegetarian chef, is destined for stardom - we loved his West Indian specialities, modern British cooking and healthier-than-thou salads
• Lovely spa offering luxurious treatments; i-escape guests receive a complimentary 30-minute welcome massage!

Lows

• The Moorish design of the hotel won’t appeal to those looking for gingerbread cottages
• A few suites are less private than others; choose one of the more secluded rooms - or keep the shutters closed!
• The 42 steps up from the small beach (which has tawny sand) make this place unsuitable for those with walking difficulties or disabilities
• Noise can bounce around the outside walls, although fences and lush landscaping ensure privacy for all