Capofaro

An original concept: a boutique resort in a working vineyard with an old lighthouse, whose beam mingles with sparks from distant Stromboli

A huddle of low white buildings, with cane-shaded terraces, draped armchairs and carpets of purple flowers, looks out past 7 hectares of vineyards and a flaking lighthouse to a deep blue sea. It could be Santorini without the crowds. But this is the Tyrrhenian Sea so, instead of the caldera, you get the distant volcano of Stromboli; behind you loom the lush pyramids of Salina's mountains.

By day, guests tan by the decked pool, the sea shimmers below, bamboos wave, grapes grow. At night Stromboli throws sparks into the night sky, and the poolside restaurant-bar comes alive with chilled music and beautiful people. This is the new hotspot, aiming to topple the Raya (from whom it stole the GM and 2 staff) from its perch of cool. Bedrooms are pared-down white cubes with the slickest of fittings and pampering bathrooms. The cuisine is ultra-refined Aeolian with a twist. Salina is tiny but repays exploration by boat, moped or foot: crystal waters, smooth-stoned beaches, twisting paths through semi-tropical flora. Come in spring or autumn and you will have it almost to yourself.

Highs

• There's a chilled-out, informal vibe - like the party island of Panarea but a bit more grown up - with chatty staff and bronzed guests
• The all-white rooms have exemplary minimalism, with shady terraces looking across indigo seas to still-active Stromboli
• The Aeolian architecture - low buildings, cannizzi roofs, thick walls - has shades of Bali and the Cyclades inside
• The lovely decked swimming pool has white sunbeds and parasols, and there's a groovy cocktail bar and upscale terrace dining
• Salina is lusher, larger and less touristy than other Aeolian islands, but has the same volcanic seascapes

Lows

• There’s no beach here, apart from a small stretch of pebbles 15 minutes’ steep walk away; and Salina’s coast generally is steep and rocky
• Getting here is not easy: there are hydrofoils from Milazzo and Messina on Sicily or, in summer, from Naples and Palermo
• You’ll be lucky to find a room in July or August, and will pay handsomely for it if you do