Carmen del Cobertizo

Terrace views of the Alhambra, a tranquil garden with a plunge pool, and only 6 rooms - plus a great position in Granada's bohemian Albaicin quarter

First impressions are mixed: the hotel is tucked down a side street and you imagine it’s going to be small, dark and unprepossessing inside. But step through its tall wooden door and everything changes. Suddenly you’re in a beautifully tranquil courtyard, surrounded by tall cheese plants, ferns and white walls. It’s utterly peaceful but for the trickle of a fountain, and light floods in from the tall windows and glass ceiling. In the centre are velvet sofas and a coffee table lined with art books. Up above you’re encircled by 2 sets of landings, each lined with antique furniture. And to your right is the leafy carmen – a peaceful garden with tables and chairs, meandering flowers and a plunge pool.

But it’s upstairs that really impresses; the suites on the top floor share a roof terrace with views of the magnificent Alhambra. It's a sun-trap by day and at night the palace walls are floodlit to beautiful effect. You’re steps from the bohemian Albaicin quarter, with its higgledy piggledy houses and riverside cafés, and within easy walking distance of Granada’s other main sights. A hidden gem.

Highs

• You'll get all the advantages of a big hotel (a massage room, a computer room, WiFi and excellent service) married with all the appeal of a small B&B
• The charming owners, Rocio and Maria, and the manager, Anna, make a real effort to get to know you, and help you get to know Granada
• There's a huge plunge pool in the garden: rare in the Albaicin and a godsend in summer
• There are clear views of the Alhambra from the roof terrace outside the suites; sit and watch the ochre walls change colour as the sun goes down
• Location, location, location: you couldn’t be better placed to explore on foot

Lows

• There's restricted access by car and no parking nearby; you’re advised to park in a multi-storey and come on foot or in a taxi
• There are only 6 rooms, so book well in advance
• The décor might not appeal to all: it's homely and floral rather than chic and contemporary, but we felt that was its charm
• Some staff have limited English - it's worth brushing up on your Spanish before you arrive