Casa da Cisterna

A cosy and stylish Beiras home-from-home, imbued with the gentle and caring spirit of its owners

Castelo Rodrigo's hilltop fortifications speak of an age when Portugal and Castille vied for control of the borderlands between the medieval kingdoms. After becoming an important stepping stone on the pilgrim's route to Santiago, this village in northern Portugal gradually lost its kudos, with its population dwindling to a mere 50 people.

In recent years the tide has changed as travellers discover the treasures of the Beira Alta and the neighbouring Douro region: home to fine wines, the archaeological sites of the Côa valley, great hiking and exceptional flora and fauna, it's easy to see why Ana and Antonio fell under its spell. After fleeing the big city they set up a small guesthouse with 7 rooms at the heart of the oldest part of the village, naming it after the adjacent cistern which once supplied the village with water.

The avian theme that runs through Casa da Cisterna reflects their passion for ornithology, whilst a collection of beautiful books, sculptures, wall-hangings and paintings mirrors their conservationist leanings. Think Slow Food, a cosy room, unhurried conversation and a chance to visit the rock art sites of the Foz Côa Park in the company of Ana, who is a qualified guide.

Highs

• Wonderful breakfasts, picnics and evening meals, which take their cue from the best Slow-Cooking principles
• The place exudes warmth and individuality, born of Ana's welcoming spirit: you'll arrive as a guest and leave as a friend
• An easy drive to the beautiful Douro valley for walks and wine tasting, plus several fascinating villages
• Cisterna's library contains stacks of books on the region's history, ecology and archaeology as well as detailed information on the best hiking trails
• The rock art sites of the Côa valley are a highlight of any visit, and Ana's guiding breathes new life into these ancient drawings

Lows

• Castelo Rodrigo is a fair way off the main drag even though the Beira Alta region is easily accessible from Oporto or Spain (it's close to the eastern border with Spain)
• A couple of the rooms draw a fine line between 'snug' and 'small'
• The small plunge pool up above the house (best for kiddies) feels out of synch' with the Cisterna ethic