Casa Das Senhoras Rainhas

A renovated townhouse in historic Obidos that stands in the lee of the town's ancient ramparts

Obidos is one of Portugal’s crown jewels, a walled town with a castle and ramparts. It was taken from the Moors in 1148 by King Dinis I, who gifted it to his wife, holy queen Isabel, and for 700 years it was an integral part of the house of Portuguese queens (the hotel’s name). It was partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, but much survives. There are 14 churches within the walls and fine azulejos (antique tiles) in each gatehouse.

This grand old building stands against the eastern wall; you can sit on your terrace drink in hand, the envy of tourists circling the ramparts above you. Dine in the garden in summer or in the restaurant itself, or help yourself to a drink in the sitting room, where an open fire smoulders in winter. Outside, bougainvillea roams on whitewashed walls, cobbled lanes wait to be explored. Climb the hill to the west to find a very pretty miradouro with views over the town, and a bar with jazz on Friday nights in summer. Beyond the walls you’ll find a tidal lagoon and the long, wave-laced sands of Foz do Arelho.

Highs

• Touring Obidos on the rampart walls - a lovely town to explore
• The tasteful rooms, most with balcony or terrace overlooking the walls
• Plenty of festas, including street processions over Easter, a medieval market in the first week of July, and a chocolate festival in November
• A warm welcome and very helpful service
• Overall a more stylish (and less expensive) hotel than the town's better-known pousada

Lows

• The town can get clogged with tourists in high season
• You're not on the coast - Obidos used to be, but the sea has retreated - and there's no pool, so you'll have to drive to one of the (superb) beaches nearby for a swim