Casa dei Mezzo

Eating

Cooking here is a pleasure. The open-plan kitchen-diner is well thought-out and properly equipped: split-level oven, fridge-freezer, dishwasher, kettle (still quite rare in Greek villas), coffee percolator, and a decent array of utensils, chopping boards, cutlery and crockery stacked in wall mounted units. You’ll find a well-stocked larder, including a bottle of the green oil from the estate’s own olives (organically farmed, no less). If cooking still doesn’t tempt you, ask Nikos, the resident manager, to book a cook, who will do all the shopping, serve up fantastic Greek dinners and even share his recipes.

There’s a table for 6 inside (or you can perch on moulded plastic bar-stools for breakfast); but most of your dining will take place on the outside patio, looking down on sparkling seas or up at sparkling stars. You can choose to sit in the sheltered ‘court’ between house and pool (for shady lunches), or out on the patio’s edge (for sunset dinners).

If you prefer to dine out, Makriyialos harbour is a 10-15 minute walk away, with a string of old-fashioned tavernas serving fresh-grilled fish, home-baked veg dishes and the juiciest of Greek salads, all accompanied by tangy retsina and goats’ cheese. Alternatively, Olympio café serves good snacks and pizzas, or there’s an Italian restaurant in neighbouring Analipsi. For a bizarre dinner experience, drive to Kalo Nero (20 minutes east) to dine at the foot of an illuminated grotto, the ‘Dragon’s Cave’; or head west to Kaliatzina taverna in Koutsouras village for yummy, unpretentious home cooking from 2 sisters, overseen by a silent granny.