Casa Morada

Hit the hammock island-style at this laid-back hideaway, tucked into a secluded cove of the Florida Keys

"Did you arrive by boat or by car?" Ticking the rather common box for 'car' on the check-in form, I chuckle and make a mental note to bring our boat along next time. It is a perfect, sunny day and as I leave the open-air reception, I catch the first glimpse of this island gem in technicolor. My bare feet touch the sand and I am instantly in relaxation mode.

Set in the mangroves of Upper Key's Islamorada, the most scenic part of the island chain with a distinct village vibe, this 16-suite beach house-cum-boutique hotel is comfy, romantic, tranquil and refreshingly un-styled. Its many nooks and crannies (a hidden pond here, a lovers' bench there, a lone hammock at the end of the pier) make it utterly charming. After a swim in the pool and a snorkel off the island, followed by a strikingly colourful sunset over Florida Bay, we jump on the complimentary bikes and head over to the local harbour for some seafood and live music. By the time we get back, the warm, balmy sea breeze has morphed into an epic, full-blown tropical storm. From the sheltered daybed on our veranda, we watch, sipping nightcaps, as the spectacular nature display of thunderbolts, lightning and epic downpour unfolds, before retreating to a night of peaceful sleep with the slowly disappearing thunder in the distance making a perfect lullaby. And we awake to another perfect day. Bliss.

Highs

• Stunningly beautiful, peaceful waterfront location amidst lush landscaping, with docks out front; watersports to try
• Airy, spacious rooms with Mexican antiques and private outdoor spaces, some with jacuzzis
• Exceptionally efficient and friendly staff; mimosas (aka Bucks Fizz), champagne, beer or wine offered on arrival
• Private sandy island with pool, cabana, loungers and champagne bar (serving a range of drinks), accessed by a wooden bridge; a great place to hang out all day
• Rates include the use of snorkelling equipment, kayaks and bikes, and WiFi
• 'Eco/Green initiative' including recycling and water conservation, still a rarity in the US

Lows

• Simple Casa breakfast, and a light lunch menu only; you'll have to eat out for dinner, but there are a good range of choices nearby
• The décor, furnishings and amenities in some rooms are slightly mismatched and a tat tired (medieval TVs), but we really liked the un-styled, comfy feel overall
• Fake grass on the breakfast veranda