Casas do Coro

A collection of cottages for 2-11, in an ancient hilltop village close to the Spanish border; self-cater or enjoy creative cuisine

Marialva is one of those places where, on arrival, your first reaction is almost bound to be an open-jawed 'Wow!'. The crenellations of its lofty fortress, narrow cobbled streets and cluster of granite-built houses feel strangely out-of-time, harking back to an age when the western edge of the Iberian plateau was the frontline of battle between Spain and a newly born kingdom of Portugal.

Nowadays the spirit of the place is far less bellicose: with a population of just 30 souls and another 40 or so when Casas do Coro is at full tilt, the village is dreamily peaceful and conducive to quiet contemplation of the soaring vistas out across the surrounding plain.

Casas do Coro is a collection of 8 granite houses, with a shared pool, garden and restaurant. A couple are cosy hideaways for 2, but most are bigger and split into self-contained rooms with kitchenettes, or have a shared kitchen for a group rental. But we'd forget self-catering - what makes a stay here doubly special is the inspired cuisine: dine here on a balmy summer night and the memory will stay with you for years to come.

Highs

• Marialva is an unforgettable hilltop village and a listed National Heritage site, plus a good base for hiking, biking and boat trips
• A romantic and indulgent set-up - cosy rooms, candelit dinners, lazing in the jacuzzi
• The decked area above the pool is an inspirational spot for whiling away your days: you can even have a daybed made up and sleep beneath the stars
• Rates include breakfast, and although you can self-cater, you'll probably opt to eat at the restaurant most nights - home cooking coupled with gourmet flourishes and alfresco dining... any foodie would love it here
• The differing sizes of houses, and fact that you can book just a room, means Casas do Coro suits both couples and larger groups/families

Lows

• There are no other eateries within walking distance - you'll have to drive 7km to Meda if you want a change of scene
• There are no grocery shops in the village; stock up for lunches in Meda, and for any meals you want to self-cater
• The rather feminine, flouncy-style décor of the houses feels a bit overdone in parts
• Marialva? Sure, the chances are you won't have heard of the place nor, perhaps, of the Foz-Côa archaeological sites, but this is a fascinating corner of the country and well worth the detour