Castelinho38

Quixotic 1866 castle overlooking Rio from the heart of Santa Teresa, converted into a laidback 10-room hotel and artists’ forum

When you’ve tired of Rio’s bars and beaches, retreat to the bohemian Santa Teresa neighbourhood for a more relaxed sojourn. Its winding streets, crumbling mansions and ancient tram are fairytale charming; better still it's an artistic hotspot, sprinkled with studios and galleries.

Adjust to the pace from a hammock, swinging on the upper balcony of this elegant yet magically haphazard castelinho - literally ‘small castle’ - situated on the crest of Mount Santa Teresa. If you're at home with an eclectic mix of vintage furniture, and open to the prospect of meeting interesting guests, you'll love it. Absorb the stunning views over Rio while playing backgammon and sipping caipirinhas on the large terrace, complete with chilled melodies and slumbering Rhodesian Ridgebacks. Join the daily Pilates class in the overgrown garden, then cool off in the outdoor shower before you go exploring. Whether that's around the hotel or out and about in Santa Teresa, this place will have you hooked. Especially because you won't be burning your bucks on overpriced accommodation.

Highs

• Vibes, views and value for money
• Fab antiques in every room; staying here is like visiting an older relative whose house is full of objets
• Friendly and attentive staff
• Truly bespoke service; these guys will tailor an itinerary to meet your Rio-orienteering and partying needs
• Great breakfasts served with awesome views on the terrace
• Weekly-changing art in the lobby, plus exhibitions by local and international artists and photographers in the high-ceilinged hall

Lows

• The barking of neighbourhood dogs sometimes builds to a cacophony
• No air conditioning, except in the Suites Deluxe. But December-February is the only time when the heat and mosquitoes might give you sleepless nights
• It's far from Rio’s famous beaches (20 minutes by taxi)
• Santa Teresa is up and coming, and whilst there are lots of guesthouses, there are still limited bar and restaurant options. Expect public areas to be filled with tourists in high season