Castro Residence

Two comfortable, characterful studio-rooms and an apartment within the Venetian citadel of Naxos, the Cyclades’ most varied island

Naxos is the largest and most varied of the Cyclades islands, with endless sandy beaches down its west coast, remote terraced villages in the north and east, high rocky mountains in the centre, and dozens of castles and chapels scattered across the island. Whatever your interests, there’s plenty to keep you amused for a week or more.

Its main town, Chora, makes a great base. It’s a classic tangle of white-washed houses and cobbled lanes, spilling down from the imposing Venetian citadel towards a seafront of lively tavernas, cafés and fishing boats. The smartest place to stay is in the castro (citadel) itself, perched inside the thick fortress walls, and looking out over the newer parts of town towards the temple-crowned peninsula of Palatia. There are no hotels, but there is one ‘residence’ with a grand total of two studio-rooms and one apartment, ideal for discerning couples. It’s not in the guidebooks, it’s rarely advertised online, and it can only be booked through a few select channels. This is one.

Highs

• You've got tavernas, bars, shops and beaches on your doorstep (but how wonderful to retreat to the cosy fastness of the citadel at night), and a mountainous interior a short drive away
• The views from the shared terrace and from the window of the top flat are magnificent, especially at sunset
• Both studios have a little kitchenette (with hob and fridge) which is handy for breakfast and snacks

Lows

• It’s certainly a privilege to stay in the citadel, but you should be aware that it’s a 10-minute walk up pedestrian lanes (there’s an Albanian lad to help with your bags)
• There is little service besides a daily maid visit and twice weekly linen change - this is for self-sufficient types
• Interiors are simple and homely, more like a spare room than a hotel, and maintenance is not always 100%
• The downstairs studio is small (and can be damp in winter)