Chiado 16

Coolly stylish self-catering apartments (each sleeps 2-4) and romantic rooms in Lisbon's buzzy Chiado quarter

When it came to reinventing this lofty 17th-century townhouse - it took 5 long years to create these 4 sumptuous self-contained apartments (aka suites) and 3 rooms - the decorative touchstone could well have been Tanner's classic Dans La Ville Blanche. Imbued with a glorious sense of light and space, it is white, enlivened by a colourful mix of art and eclectic furnishings, that's the heart of the matter at Chiado 16.

After the thrill of a tram ride up from the Baixa, followed by a supremely relaxed welcome in the funky, boudoir-esque reception area, we were already feeling good when we pushed aside our apartment door to discover our Lisbon living space. Whilst my better half purred about the views across to Alfama and down to the Tagus, the plush bedroom and floor-to-ceiling wardrobes, I was homing in on the gleaming kitchen gadgetry, an ultra-fast WiFi connection, and a massive fridge packed with drinks, bics and chocs.

Several of Lisbon's best known sights are within an easy stroll including the São Carlos National Theatre and the Carmo Archeaological Museum, whilst the shops and restaurants of Rua Garret and the Praça de Camões are just round the corner; this is luxury living at its top-notch best. And to gild the lily, Heleen and her helpful staff are always on-hand at reception to share their insider's knowledge of what's what in Lisbon, and will go out of their way to ensure your stay is perfect. Whether you're a couple seeking romance or a family looking for a staycation, this is a rare and impeccable find.

Highs

• An inspired commingling of creature comfort with sassy, eye-catching design
• Many of Lisbon's best-known sights and restaurants are a shake away, and there's an electrico (tram) stop at the end of the street
• Slick, open-plan kitchens in the apartments come with state-of-the-art cooking gear whilst excellent takeaways can be ordered from an adjacent restaurant
• A spoiling sense of space: you really look forward to getting back here after a day exploring the city
• The snazzy, urbane brief of the interiors mirrors the world outside: Chiado is one of the places-to-be in Lisbon

Lows

• Whilst windows come double-glazed you hear the faint rumble of passing trams
• Only the top 2 apartments and the double rooms benefit from views across the city
• Parking close to Chiado 16 is nigh on impossible, so leave your car in Baixa then head up the hill by tram or taxi