Costantinopoli 104

A veritable oasis in the old heart of Naples, with tall palms, exotic flowers, a small pool and elegant rooms

What a discovery: you step off the vibrant, vespa-ridden streets of central Naples into an arched residential court leading to an oasis of calm. Red cyclamen and orange aloes flame beneath leafy palms and a big old magnolia tree, while trim box hedges guide you to a bijou pool in the shade of neighbouring blocks. A bright stained-glass portal welcomes you to the villa, a late 19th-century palazzo with rust-coloured walls and stucco'd coats of arms above the awning which, in summer, shades guests lingering over cornetti and cappuccino from the bountiful breakfast buffet.

Step inside, through the plushly-sofa'd reception where pleated Philippe Starck lampshades and curly chandeliers hang from high ceilings, and the bedrooms (some split-level suites) do not disappoint. Spread across the original residence and its knocked-through neighbour, they’re smart and comfy, with wide, firm beds, soothing palettes and bespoke art. A friendly, relaxing retreat from the chaotic charms of Naples.

Highs

• The central location - 2 paces from tree-filled Piazza Bellini, 2 blocks from the archaeological museum, and a 15-minute walk from the Palazzo Reale and the harbour
• The charming staff (and valet parking for those who, like me, are mad enough to drive here)
• The only central Naples hotel with a pool (albeit a small one), plus a large, sun-trap roof terrace with loungers, tables and chairs
• The complimentary carafes of Nocino and Limoncello liqueurs in reception
• It's intimate and homely while retaining its century-old style

Lows

• Hard to find - and deliberately so: the only sign is tiny
• Some of the neighbouring blocks are slightly decrepit, and scaffolding stretches across one of the facing buildings on Via Bellini
• Occasional traffic and street noise (despite the best efforts of double glazing)
• WiFi coverage is limited to a couple of areas downstairs, though there are plans to extend it to the rooms
• One room (305) only has an internal window