Dar Roumana
Fes, Morocco
A prime position, friendly owners, rooftop dinners and ornate rooms add up to our favourite riad-hotel in Fes’ vast medina
The ‘house of the pomegranate’ is a spectacular
residence just inside the medina's upper walls, with biblical views
from its crows nest over close-packed rooftops and minarets. It was
only after moving in that US-born Jennifer discovered these views
– and knew she’d struck gold. But she also worked hard
for it. For 3 years she supervised the pain-staking restoration of
its ornate, tall-ceilinged bedrooms. Minutely-carved
wooden screens and stucco friezes were cleaned with toothpicks and
wire wool; the splendid court gleams with blue-white Fassi
tiling.
Besides the burbling fountain is a ceremonial bartal
(alcove), cosy with guides, city maps, a sleeping cat and
Sebastian’s guitar. His flawless flamenco accompanies you as
you wind up steep stairwells to the roof terrace, now strewn with
leather pouffes and inviting sofas. You can take dinner up here
– a happy fusion of Jennifer’s Cordon Bleu training and
her many years in the Arab world – and if the mood takes you,
replicate it on one of her full-day shopping and cooking tutorials.
Reviewed by Michael Cullen
Last updated 15 December 2011
Highs
- The Royal Suite (Yasmina) is one of the most splendid riad-rooms in Fes; and the other 3 aren’t far behind
- From the moment you arrive, Jennifer and Sebastian treat you as friends; they can take you on a guided tour of the medina, its food markets and even accompany you to the public hammam
- Jennifer’s on-request dinners are fresh and varied – mountain trout and fava-bean soups as well as the staple tagines and couscous
- You’re away from the medina’s hustle and bustle (even the dawn prayer call is more muted here), but only 10 minutes’ walk to the heart of the souks
- The roof terrace is a lovely space for post-souk relaxation, with its sheltered seating, raised crow’s nest and the rustle of a huge plane tree alongside
Lows
The only faults we could find were those inherent to the traditional dar layout i.e.-- The 2 ground floor rooms lack privacy (close windows and shutters before wandering about your room in a state of undress!)
- Bedroom doors cannot be locked – but there’s always someone about
- A couple of bathrooms lack natural light
- It’s hard to find – though only 5 mins’ walk from either Bab Guissa or Ain Azlitan gates, where you can be met
