Dar Zaman

A beautiful, intimate hideaway in the quieter reaches of the northern medina, whose warm service makes for an unforgettable stay

The taxi dropped me on a main road opposite a narrow cobbled lane which looked, for all the world, like yet another dark dead-end in Marrakech's winding medina. And while it may be a cul-de-sac in the strict sense, a regal wooden door at the end opens to reveal a true haven from the bustle of the outside world. Dar Zaman’s beauty lies in its intimate size (there are just 4 rooms) and its truly personalised service. It also happens to be great value.

When Peter, a British former ad exec, first visited Marrakech in 2005 he had no plans to settle, but on entering the calm of the riad it is easy to see why he has stayed. The building - little more than a shell then - has been lovingly restored to emphasise the beautiful pointed arches, white stonework and wrought-iron grilles of the central courtyard, which now provides a perfect space to relax after a day of exploring the madness of the souks.

As soon as darkness falls, the riad comes alive in the glow of candle light and warm hues. Rose petals are sprinkled on the beds and dinner tables and candles light the stairways and halls. The 4 bedrooms are stylishly simple and decorated in neutral tones to complement the Zen ambience. Couples on a budget will love it here.

Highs

• Peter and Hassan's warm and attentive service will leave you feeling like you have spent your time in Marrakech with kind and knowledgeable friends
• You're a short walk from 2 of Marrakech's best restaurants (Zellij and Yacout) and the Medersa Ben Youssef; 10-15 mins' walk from the main square
• In a city of rising prices, these rooms represent great value for money
• Our evening meal was delicious and fresh, which cannot be said of all in-riad dinners

Lows

• Finding the riad is a tricky, but Hassan will come out to meet you at the main road when you first arrive
• Bathrooms are quite small, with little natural light; bedrooms are narrow too (as so often in riads)
• With just 4 rooms, you'll need to book early