De Naga Chiang Mai

An ideal base for sightseeing: quiet and civilised but within spitting distance of the traveller hub of Tha Pae Gate

Not long ago your only choice of accommodation in Chiang Mai was a big tourist hotel by the river or a bevy of ratty guesthouses at Tha Pae Gate, the backpacker hub. No more: boutique-ish hotels have sprung up left, right and centre around the old town, and none more conveniently located than De Naga, in the middle of the action yet recessed in its own compound from the main thoroughfare. Although with 55 rooms it stretches the definition of ‘boutique’, this is a beautifully designed, smoothly run and highly affordable mid-range hotel, making it the ideal base to explore the old town and beyond. You won’t get better value for money.

Designed in modern Asian style with Lanna touches – dark wood, whitewash and bold silks – the rooms are all accessed from a quiet, romantic courtyard, beautifully lit in the evenings. It's perfect for couples between 30 and 45 who would have stayed in a guesthouse, perhaps on this very site, some 5 to 10 years ago - but have since got used to their creature comforts.

Highs

• Location: right by Tha Pae Gate, it's perfect for exploring the old town, the beer bars and the Night Bazaar
• Stylish rooms are arranged around a timbered courtyard with murmuring fountains and a banyan tree, creating a characterful, secluded atmosphere
• Quiet, despite the proximity to the action
• Excellent, friendly service
• Highly competitive rates for i-escape guests at the time of writing, with free in-room minibar

Lows

• The tiny ‘spa pool’ has only 6 loungers - these will be highly contested in the high season. But after a footsore day, a cool blast from its underwater jets will revive the spirits
• The free WiFi in the rooms wasn’t working when we visited. But a couple of PCs in the lobby run on cable and are free to use
• The extensive breakfast buffet is best enjoyed early