Deogarh Mahal

A 17th-century fort with glittering mirror-work and murals; excellent value for money and one of Rajasthan's real gems, 80 miles from Udaipur

Perched on top of the Aravalli Hills, this romantic palace impresses with its marvellous central courtyard and its array of battlements, domes, turrets, jharokhas and huge gateways. It was restored by the Chundawat family, who still inhabit areas of the fort and are justly proud of their authentic and intimate heritage hotel. One of 16 original feudal estates (thikanas) privileged to wait upon the Maharana of Udaipur, Deogarh Mahal is in a traditional village surrounded by beautiful countryside, lakes and hills; at 2100 feet above sea level, expect cooler temperatures here than in much of Rajasthan.

The 50 gorgeous rooms and suites are scattered around various wings of the lovely honey-coloured building. Traditional Mewari cuisine, along with continental and oriental recipes, is served in the restaurant; other facilities include 2 swimming pools, a Jacuzzi, a gym, a coffee shop and charming service. Also renowned as a school of miniature painting and with a collection of vintage cars, Deogarh Mahal is the perfect respite if you're travelling between Jodhpur and Udaipur.

Highs

• The lovely owners are very hands-on: the Chundawat family love chatting about the history of the place and can take you on expeditions, while their friendly staff will book your onward travel
• The huge, rambling building is great for exploring, with its numerous rooftops and hidden nooks and crannies; don't miss the Sheesh Mahal, the colourful hall of mirrors
• There are horses and great terrain for riding
• It's excellent value for money, and great fun for kids
• You can also 'Rent-A-Fort', Seengh Sagar, which is 5km from Deogarh and sleeps up to 8

Lows

• There are some mosquitos in the evenings and early mornings - though all rooms have insect repellent and screened windows, plus coils for outside dining
• There are quite a few stairs, so it's not ideal for the less agile
• The pool is unheated, though solar heating is planned
• At night some noise from the village can be heard in some of the rooms
• It's very popular, including with tour groups, so you need to book way ahead