The massive and mountainous chain of the high Atlas mountains separates Marrakech from the arid plains and semi-Saharan dunes to its south. Rugged peaks rise to over 4,000m (13,000 ft) and are usually snow-or ice-covered from November to April, although in recent, warmer winters they have often had little more than a dusting. With their myriad of remote and friendly Berber villages tucked high up on the plateaux, and the network of mule paths that links them, this region is a walker’s haven, particularly in spring (April – May), when the winter snows have melted, day time temperatures are pleasant, wild flowers abound, and emerald green terraces contrast dramatically with the forbiddingly brown and barren hillsides. Rich in precious and semi-precious stones and crystals, they're also a geologist’s delight.
Treks and Hikes:
If you plan to go trekking, the Moroccan Tourist Office publishes a booklet each year called the Great Trek Through the Moroccan Atlas full of useful info. Richard Knight's recently published Trekking in the Moroccan Atlas is also recommended.
Jebel Toubkal (4,167m), north Africa's highest mountain, is the most popular hiking region and offers trekking routes to suit all levels of fitness. The village of Imlil (65km from Marrakech, 17km from Asni) is the established starting point for treks around Toubkal, where we recommend staying at the Kasbah du Toubkal. They can arrange a 2-day fully-supported hike to the summit and back, with 1 night in a simple mountain refuge. The ascent is strenous (several sheer scree slopes) but involves no actual climbing once the snow has cleared in spring. Those who prefer to take their downhills slowly should allow an extra day, splitting the descent with a night’s camp en route, lying agape beneath crystal clear, star-studded skies. Guides, mules and porters should be employed for anything more than a day hike. Expect to meet several tourists along the way.
A popular longer trek is the Toubkal Circuit (66km)which takes 7-9 days, starts and finishes in Imlil and takes in Toubkal's summit, several high-altitude passes and remote Berber villages.
If you are not up to Toubkal, there are plenty of other less taxing trails in the area. You can still enjoy spectacular scenery on the easier 3-day hike to Setti Fatma which includes only one rocky pass (3172m).
Other popular hikes include the gentler Kik Plateau, home to a cluster of Berber villages which bustle with life and welcoming shepherd families, despite having neither electricity nor road access. These can be reached from near Ouirgane, which can also arrange mule treks through the foothills and gorges of the lower Atlas.
- M'Goun Massif in the central High Atlas is more remote but friendlier than Toubkal. The 6-7 day circuit which starts and finishes in Tabant in the lush Ait Bou Goumez Valley (approx. 200 km east of Marrakech, nearish to Azilal) includes the summit of M'goun (4,068m), spectacular views, plenty Berber villages and dramatic isolated gorges. Easier treks can be done at lower altitude in the valley passing through numerous hamlets.
- Jebel Sarhro further south between the High Atlas and the sub-Sahara, is the best place for winter trekking (December to April) when the Atlas are mostly snowed in. A number of challenging treks start from N'Kob near the Dades Valley, about 120km east of Ouarzazate. Although lower in altititude the region is dramatic, wild, arid, isolated and little explored but with beautiful rock formations and deep gorges.
Two great drives: Marrakech - Taroudant
(280km, allow 5-6 hours)
Morocco's most spectacular road is the R203 which goes over the Tizi'n'Test pass(2,092m) linking Taroudant to Marrakech. The pass itself is about 100km from Marrakech, after Asni (near the Kasbah de Toubkal) and Ouirgane. The breathtaking mountain scenery is reason alone for taking this route, but try and include time to visit the historic mosque of Tin Mal (lies on the Marrakech side of the pass), one of only a handful which non-muslims can visit (except Fridays).
- Marrakech - Ouarzazate - Draa Valley/Dades Valley (200km/3 hours as far as Ouarzazate) is another breathtaking drive which takes you up into the Atlas crossing the Tizi'n'Tichka pass. From here you can make a worthwhile detour to the crumbling but surprisingly lavish Glaoui kasbah at Telouet.
From Ouarzazate (a rather non-descript former French garrison town), you can head east through the Dades Valley known as the road of the 1000 kasbahs (castle-like fortifications built by Berber tribes usually made from clay and mud). 30km before Ouarzazate is the best preserved kasbah of the Atlas region - Ait Benhaddou which featured in Lawrence of Arabia, Jesus of Nazareth and Gladiator. Continue driving beyond Ouarzazate either down the magical Draa valley towards Zagora (165km from Ouarzazate) and the desert, passing through oases and Berber villages or to Tinerhir along the Valley of the Kasbahs (see south and desert region). For the more adventurous and energetic this is a great trip by mountain bike.
If you plan to do either of these drives from the Kasbah du Toubkal, allow about 6 hours to Ouarzazate and about the same to Taroudant.
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