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After a few days in the desert or Marrakech, what could be more
refreshing than cooling off in the Atlantic? Sea breezes will blow
any remaining cobwebs away and big waves will keep surfers happy
for hours. Morocco's Atlantic coast stretches over 3,000 km from
Dakhla, near the border with Mauritania up to Cap Spartel and the
Straits of Gibraltar. Apart from a handful of resorts, the beaches
remain unspoilt.
Avoid Agadir - a characterless, package tour destination - and head
instead for the delightful fishing port of Essaouira
(pronounced Esa-wEEra), 170km/2-3 hours west of Marrakech. Its
relaxing atmosphere and the excellent conditions for windsurfing
have long made it a popular spot with independent travellers. Once
loved by Orson Wells and Jimi Hendrix, it now counts among its
admirers John Mortimer and Cat Stevens.
Imposing fortifications (still with cannons) are an
impressive reminder of the battles that once raged along this
stretch of coast. Essaouira, formerly known as Mogodor, was
conquered successively by the Carthaginians, Romans, Portuguese,
Spanish and finally the 60s hippies.
Inside the walled town you'll find narrow streets and whitewashed
houses with blue shutters, atmospheric souks, wood workshops,
shaded squares and cafes. From ancient times to the present
Essaouira has been an important port and fishing centre. The lively
harbour is filled with colourful fishing boats, nets, vendors and
stalls grilling the day's catch.
The beaches are broad, sandy, apparently endless and very
windy; the sea is all around, deep blue at noon, white and
wave-whipped in the afternoon, orange-red as the sun sets behind
the ‘purple islets’.
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