Domaine de la Baronnie

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Ile de Ré, France

The grande dame in town, this mansion hotel oozes history, along with style and comfort in a park-like setting

Reviewed by Judy Naftulin

OVERVIEW

Enter through heavy iron gates and step into some French history. La Baronnie is a stone mansion with 18th century French baronial pedigree. Unlike other ‘town-house-turned-hotels’ commonly found in St. Martin de Ré, the island's busy capital town, La Baronnie is much grander in scale. The hotel is imposing, inside and out. Think summer home away from the palace (albeit on a smaller scale) and you’ll be about right, though the ambience is not at all royal, more well-to-do, family friendly. (If you want something more intimate, book at the Baronnie's baby brother next door, Domaine du Bien-Etre.)

The Pallardys - he a famed osteopath, she a model turned interior designer - have sympathetically restored the place, keeping histories intact but not forgetting about guests' comfort. The accommodations have a French traditional decor, with bucolic views. After a day of discovering the best of Ré, including the town harbour (only moments away from the hotel), return to what feels like your own grand home, leaving the commoners behind, so to speak.

HIGHS

The building is a historic gem with very interesting interiors and personal touches everywhere
Quiet gardens to relax, away from the summertime crowds, lurking just outside the gates
Great location, with harbour and all that town offers moments away
The owners really know the island inside out and have lots of suggestions for your time there

LOWS

18th century decor is a bit sober and heavy-looking, which may not appeal to those on a beach holiday
Breakfasts could be a little grander (no cappuccino and espresso, for example)

ROOMS

Rooms are large with high ceilings, antique woodwork, parquet floors, metres of period-style fabric and deep pile rugs to give you that lord-of-the-manor feel. Each has a saturated colour theme and twin beds (put together) or queen. Note that there's no air conditioning, although the proximity to the sea keeps the temperatures from getting too sultry.

Bathrooms are decently sized and well-equipped, but not extravagant. Most have showers only; all have hairdryers.

Double rooms are best, all of them with garden views. Our favourite is "Madame de Sevigne" (left) with its opulent 18th century style and wonderfully verdant views - but it has a shower only. The turret room, "Tour des Amis", is our least favourite: the space is tight, there are steep stairs and the decor is very simple, though it's the only room with a view to the sea.

The less expensive courtyard suites are also lovely, but you trade the terrific green view for a cobblestone one. These are family rooms, one ideal for a couple with one child, the others sleeping 4 in a double and 2 bunk beds (extra beds are available for larger families).

EATING

Breakfast is served buffet-style in the dining room or weather-permitting, in the garden. It's a traditional, simple French breakfast: croissants, fruit, fresh orange juice. Paper napkins have replaced linen ones (unfortunate but understandable, since on-premise laundering uses so much water).

Tea time in the garden, or anytime for that matter, is relaxing and it will be brought to you with a biscuit, if you ask. There's no room service (this is a guest house, not a hotel, Madame Pallardy notes). On Saturdays, informal meals are served on a table d'hote basis at the Bien Etre, with fresh seafood and salads featuring prominently.

Otherwise, good recommendations for lunch and dinner in town near the harbour (and no drive!) are: Bistro du Marin (lunch), La Sarassin St Martin for galettes, and Le Serghi (dinner), 15 Quay Clemenceau.

ACTIVITIES

There are no organized activities at the hotel, but there's lots of good advice: the Pallardys really know their island. To start with, they'll tell you to rent a bicycle, (10% discount for guests at Tout a velo in Saint Martin), the key to fully enjoying the island. They'll recommend what to see in all the towns, where the best beaches are, and their favourite restaurants, simple or gourmet. Most importantly, they'll tell you how you to avoid summer crowds.

Within the pretty 17th century port town of St Martin de Ré, take a stroll past the blue or green shuttered townhouses with flowers out front; visit the church of St Marie and Vauban's citadel; lick a cone, sip a glass of wine or try Ré's own micro-brewed beer at one of the many quayside cafés; shop for shoes or a Breton striped shirt; rent a bicycle and venture forth to the seaside.

FEATURES

Safe Box

Cots Available

Extra Beds Available

Breakfast

Dinner by Arrangement

Organic Produce

Vegetarian Options

Garden

Internet Connection

Fax Available

Communal TV

Laundry Service

Meeting Rooms

Babysitting

No Smoking Room

Parking Available

Ecotourism

ACTIVITIES

	Cycling

	Fishing

	Golf

	Hiking / Walking

	Riding

	Tennis

	Historical Sites

	Nightlife

	Shopping/Markets

	Birdwatching

	Nature Reserves

	Sailing

	Surfing

	Swimming

	Windsurfing

Getting there

Name	Domaine de la Baronnie	Location	Saint-Martin de Ré, Ile de Ré
Type	Historic Guesthouse: 6 rooms	Country	France
Price Guide	Dbl: €190-340, BB	Open	21 March - 30 October


DISTANCES	Airport: 15km	Nearest Shops: 0.1km	Nearest restaurant: 0.1km	Beach: 3km