Ecolodge de Dar Itrane

A simple, no-frills lodge in the remote Aït Bougmez valley - a little-trodden corner of Morocco's stunning High Atlas mountains

The High Atlas valley of Aït Bougmez remains one of Morocco’s best-kept secrets. Vehicle access came just three years ago, by way of an awe-inspiring road that snakes up and over a high pass before dropping down to the fertile valley floor. This was an extraordinary feat of engineering and it's not a route to be driven by the faint-hearted.

The valley still has the feel of a hidden Shangri-la; of a remote mountain kingdom that time passed by. Dar Itrane (which means House of the Stars) clings to a rocky bluff at the eastern end of the valley in the charming village of Imelghas, looking out across a patchwork of neatly tended fields to the snow-capped peaks beyond. This pisé-built inn, with 18 simple, homespun rooms, is an ideal trekking base and offers a unique insight into local Berber culture. What's more, its French owners have a genuine commitment to the natural, human and cultural environment of this uniquely beautiful corner of the High Atlas, so by staying here, you're helping to preserve the village and landscape.

Highs

• The Aït Bougmez valley has a unique beauty and remains unsullied by tourism
• The journey here is an adventure in itself - and one you'll never forget
• The night skies, with so little light pollution, are simply amazing
• The walking here is as good as anywhere in the Atlas and Dar Itrane friendly staff are accustomed to helping to organise treks

Lows

• It's very remote and off-the-beaten-track - but that should be the allure
• Some would find the spectacular journey to be an ordeal, and it's a definite no-no if you suffer from vertigo
• There's no TV or internet access (a high for some)
• Don’t expect gourmet meals but do count on simple and wholesome food
• The place is run in an organic, occasionally chaotic, ‘take us as you find us’ kind of way