El Encanto de Cabo Pulmo

Enchanting little house and a separate casita, with a gorgeous walled garden, in the peaceful village of Cabo Pulmo on the wild East Cape (sleeps 2-8)

Baja California Sur is synonymous in people's minds with spring break vacations and brash all-inclusives. But in the laid-back 2-horse town of Cabo Pulmo (where there really are 2 free-roaming horses, one of which nibbled our thatch at night) we found the magical antithesis to Los Cabos. Reached only by dirt road, it's a dusty, off-the-grid fishing hamlet with a few scattered eateries and homes, tucked beside the turquoise Sea of Cortez and framed by arid, rugged hills.

Diane and Rob fell for Cabo Pulmo, as do many who venture here, and their masterpiece, El Encanto, is truly a labour of love. The 3 generous and vivid suites, 2 of them in a little self-catering house and one in a separate casita, spill out to covered terraces and patios, set within a colourful walled garden of native and desert plants which attract vivacious birdlife. The owners' excellent taste is evident in the high quality of fixtures and fittings, the bold yet harmonious palette, and the eclectic mix of Mexican folk art, handcrafted furniture and whimsical sculptures. We are forever thanking our lucky stars (and we saw plenty in this light-pollution-free town) that we could stay in this piece of paradise.

Highs

• You can book one suite or all 3, making it ideal for both couples and families (though we think it works best as a house rental for 4-6)
• The clever design has high palapa ceilings and covered terraces to keep it cosy and cool
• Cabo Pulmo itself is friendly and slow-paced - we longed to stay
• Local hosts Karl and Kimmie are helpful and friendly
• This is the closest embarkation point for Cabo Pulmo National Marine Park, with its corals and fish, snorkelling and watersports

Lows

• No meals are served and only the Fountain Suite comes with use of the kitchen; if you're in the other suites, you'll need to eat out and dining options in Cabo Pulmo are limited
• It's all solar-powered, so don't expect an array of electronic gadgetry (although the main house is pretty well equipped)
• There's no pool - but the town beach is safe for swimming and has palapas for shade
• There's no nightlife (a plus for many) but if you're here to party, get thee to Los Cabos (90 minutes away)