Elia Hotel & Spa

Eco-friendly spa hideaway nestling in olive groves near Chania, close to some of west Crete’s best beaches

Get-away-from-it-all fans will love this rustic hotel, which seems as firmly rooted in sylvan groves as the world’s oldest olive tree down the road in Vouves. The views over Kolimbari bay are timeless and tranquil; the rolling hills scored with hikeable footpaths and unexpected waterfalls. This is a genuine hideaway, in every sense: owned by the grandson of a doughty resistance fighter who hid allies here during the Battle of Crete. But any difficulties finding it are smoothed away like magic by the warm welcome from Giorgos and staff.

The pastel houses have been carefully renovated to expose stone walls, stunning fireplaces and ceilings held aloft by honey-coloured beams. Alongside the antiques are plenty of modern comforts: plumped up four-posters, breezy air con, flowery terraces and an on-site spa where you can chill out with face and body therapies, from detox and massage to seaweed and mud baths. And, if you can stir yourself, some of Crete's most delectable beaches - Falassarna, Balos, Elafonisi - lie within an hour's drive.

Highs

• Sweet slumbers serenaded by the sough of wind and the twitter of birds
• Friendly and informative staff handpicked from the surrounding villages, and always there to help
• A bumper crop of blurb about things to go, do and see
• Turkish bath, massages, mud baths and other delights of the spa
• The koulourakia biscuits and other fresh-baked Cretan pastries for breakfast
• A beautiful pool with a view, peacefully tucked away

Lows

• Hard to find – take our detailed directions and keep your eyes peeled for signposts amid the long spring grass
• Minimal meal choice – but if you don’t like what’s on offer you can usually order something simple, like an omelette or a Greek salad, instead
• Absence of privacy – most rooms are clustered around the reception and dining terrace; request rooms furthest from here, or book the separate Villa Elanthi, which has its own gardens and patio
• You'll want a hire car: no tavernas nearby, and not much going on in the local villages