Elounda Island Villas

Eating

The family also runs an open-air taverna serving a few Greek-Mediterranean dishes à la Alexopoulos – baked vegetables, Cretan pies, salads and smoothies – which were among the best we tasted in the area, and very reasonably priced. If you make the right noises, Kiki will factor your appetite in when she does her morning's cooking.

Breakfast, which is excluded from the room rates, is also available here – but you might prefer to buy supplies of coffee, orange juice, yoghurt, honey and nuts and do it all yourself in your kitchen. For provisions, the centre of Elounda is a 20-minute walk.

There's no shortage of tavernas and bars in Elounda, favourites among which are The Ferryman on the waterside (try their slow cooked lamb and the stuffed vine leaves) and Lotus Eaters for seafood (the grilled prawns, steamed sea bass with soy and ginger and peppered steak all come recommended). A good budget option is Vacchus, which serves simple homely fare like gigantes (butter beans) and pork chops at unbeatable prices. In nearby Plaka, several tavernas have wonderful waterside settings facing the islet of Spinalonga, but watch out for the prices.