Esperas Traditional Houses

A well-placed, well-priced collection of Suites and Villas in Santorini’s most sought-after village, Oia

If Santorini's sunset is the greatest open-air cinema in the world, then Esperas is its prime seat. Perched on the west-facing cliffs of the island's most westerly village, it stares straight into Helios' golden eye as it plunges into Homer's wine-dark seas. It's a truly mythical moment, amplified by a glass of Dionysos' local nectar, and sealed with spontaneous applause from a hundred guests lining the caldera's edge. Come the morning, it's a collage of cobalt sea, azure sky, turquoise pool, all offset by the curved whites of Esperas' vaulted houses and the hard lines of those dark, volcanic cliffs.

But it's not just about poetry. Esperas is also an extremely sensible choice of hotel. Clean, comfortable cave-houses with private kitchens and terraces, excellent English-speaking staff who cannot do enough to help you, and prices which are refreshingly sane in the mad world of Santorinian tourism. It all adds up to our favourite midrange hotel in the breathtakingly spectacular, romantic little town of Oia.

Highs

• A wide choice of 1- and 2-bedroom Houses, Suites and smaller Studios - all with kitchenettes, all spotlessly clean
• Friendly staff, headed by Yvonne (Dutch), Julia and George (Greek), help with arrivals, baggage, day-trips
• We liked the "cave-pool", and there are plenty of loungers for sunbathing
• Being on the edge of Oia, you don't get the cruise-ship hordes wandering by
• Private terrace and complimentary wine ensure optimum conditions for sunset viewing!

Lows

• No under 12's - it's primarily a couples' place
• The interiors are not as cool and designer as some top-end Oia hotels
• Be aware that the kitchenettes are basic
• WiFi coverage and connectivity is patchy
• Not for the unfit or immobile - it's 10 minutes' steep walk from the carpark