Estalagem da Ponta do Sol

Part modernist, part traditional quinta, this minimalist clifftop hotel gets architects in a lather - and they’re not the only ones

Whale-spotters used to stand on the terrace and light fireworks to alert neighbouring harbours to passing pods. A century on, that terrace is used to host European DJs for full moon parties in the summer. The rest of the time it's a sun deck with expansive views of the old whale roads. It's that sort of place. Funky.

This is not a designer hotel that erases the past in favour of the future; it works with it to create something far more interesting. The 54-room hotel, with its restaurant, bars and many chillout areas, sits on the cliff top overlooking little Ponta do Sol and the sea. The views are to die for, though visiting architects are more taken with the hotel than the vistas: the marriage of old quinta with modernist annexes is inspired. The outdoor spaces are especially enticing, from the traditional palm-lined terrace to the infinity pool; everywhere you look there’s a frame for the view. Crucially, the village is close enough to Funchal for a night out, but far enough away that you feel you’re getting a break from the city.

Highs

• The views: taking a chromotherapy bath in the spa with a full view of the sunset over the Atlantic can’t be beat
• The uplifting modernist architecture combined with the prices attracts a more youthful crowd than any other hotels nearby
• Summer nightlife, and chill-out areas inside and out to recover
• This part of Madeira gets more sunshine than any other part of the island
• Great value, especially considering that transfers to airport and levadas are included; but if you want something even cheaper, EPDS's little sister hotel, Hotel da Vila, is a short walk away

Lows

• Hotel car park is small: parking is tricky but not impossible
• Cleaning standards can be a bit lax in the rooms and around the pool
• The food is a little disappointing
• The accommodation block looks a bit holiday-camp-like from the outside, and the bedrooms feel more corporate than high design