FCC Phnom Penh

A legendary haunt of grizzled war-zone reporters and spaced-out travellers, in the perfect location for following their fading footsteps

Ah, the history! It was right here, under the great black ceiling fans, overlooking the lazy flow of the river, that the legends of the lawless UNCTAD days got distorted beyond recognition in the retelling - from sozzled foreign correspondent’s mouth to stoned traveller’s ear - until people really thought you could hire an AK-47 and tell a local child to run.

The foreign correspondents have fallen (not to AK-47s but to the economies of the newspaper industry), and the travellers with their beards and beads have decamped, but the Foreign Correspondents' Club still thrives. Now, though, it is under corporate ownership and its logo is on T-shirts, bags and what-all else. Perhaps it’s for the best. The location remains the very centre of Phnom Penh’s tourist ghetto, a stone’s throw from the National Museum, a lazy stroll to the Royal Palace. And nowadays you can even get service in 8 well-appointed rooms. The terrace and rooftop still have the best views in town; throw open your window, lie on the bed and know you’re in the throbbing heart of a strange city - a great feeling.

Highs

• The lively location, bang in the middle of the old town, with easy access to everything. The traveller hub by which other hotels define their position
• Views of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers or the National Museum from every room
• Smooth service, and the most knowledgeable staff in town
• Frequently changing photography exhibitions, and plenty of other interesting events going on
• The kudos of saying ‘Oh, we just took a room at the FCC...’ and watching your friends turn green

Lows

• Restaurant prices are considered a little expensive
• No pool, since it’s essentially a few good rooms attached to the famous bar
• Peaceful it ain’t. You're at the centre of the action, right underneath the bar and the street outside can be noisy (tuk tuk drivers line up outside). Bring earplugs if you’re a light sleeper
• A little wear and tear in evidence although well kept - you're here for the location and cool bar rather than luxurious rooms