Fort Tiracol

For a whiff of Goa’s heritage, head north to Maharashtra border country, where a converted Indo-Portuguese fort offers contemporary rooms with breathtaking views

Standing proud on a red-rock headland, guarding the mouth of the Tiracol River, this 17th-century military outpost was built to defend Indian territory from foreign invaders. But it was no match for the Portuguese, who not only captured the fort, but added a series of gun turrets and a wedding-cake Catholic church with a bell tower. The battle to fend off Goa’s sweeping invasion of mass tourism has been more easily won – the only way to get here is by ferry.

A national monument, the fort was a gloomy state-run guesthouse until it was leased to Nilaya Hermitage in 2002. A skilful transition followed and now, behind thick stone walls washed with turmeric paintwork, there are 7 nifty designer rooms. Decorated in earthy ochre with polished cement floors and black-tiled bathrooms, they all gaze at the ocean from battlement windows. On the ramparts, there’s a romantic little restaurant and terrace bar. And below, a giant statue of Lord Jesus rises from an inner courtyard, brandishing an illuminated crucifix to the often starry heavens. Truly, this is one of Goa’s most unusual hotels.

Highs

• An interesting combination of hospitality and preservation – boutique hotel meets military history
• Sensational views across the Tiracol River to pretty Kerim beach and the Arabian Sea
• The chance to discover a relatively untrodden corner of Goa, protected from development by poor access
• Only a 15-minute drive to the pristine, as-yet undiscovered beaches on the Goa-Maharashtra border
• Delicious food – try Goan fish curry or hot, spicy king prawns – and warm, friendly staff

Lows

• The rusting tower of a Tata steel works (employing 5,000 workers) looms out of the trees behind the fort, though you won’t notice it once inside the hotel
• The rooms are not air conditioned and can get stuffy during the hot season
• Off the beaten track; some may consider this a plus
• No pool and you'll need to cross the river to reach Kerim beach, though this is easy
• The fort is open to the public until 6pm daily, so you may have to put up with gaggles of gawping day-trippers – though mostly at the weekends