Gaia Hotel and Reserve

Eating

The restaurant, La Luna, is a truly inspired place. Firstly, it has the prime position in Gaia’s hilltop site: a real king of the castle feel, with panoramic views out over the Pacific coast and Manuel Antonio’s jungle-covered peninsula from its long open sides. The design is cool and modern, with a faintly Japanese touch: tables are black lacquered, with wooden slatted table mats, luxurious white linens, abundant glassware and straight linen-covered chairs.

The elegant bar continues the black lacquer and wicker theme, with tall swivelling stools, and there’s an area of tall palms and squishy sofas to sink into while enjoying sunset cocktails and tapas. You have to try the Pura Vida: local fire water Guaro Cacique added to cranberry, orange juice, triple sec and splash of grenadine. Mojitos and Mangotinis are also recommended.

The food is world-class. The style is modern Pacific Rim inspired, with lots of typical Costa Rican ingredients like yucca and plantain, and a few dishes to please the North American market, such as rib eye steak and pork tenderloin. But vegetarians won’t be disappointed either. Our ceviche of mahi mahi was quite our favourite in all Costa Rica: generous strips of succulent fish with plenty of citrus flavour but not at all bitter, and served with homemade tortillas and cayenne aioli. Dinner started well with a superb tuna tartare, tangy with ginger. There were some fine Argentine wines to try by the glass - well chosen and reasonably priced. And our tilapia en papillote with coconut sauce - fish cooked in paper - was a revelation.

Breakfast kicks off with the usual fruit platter, except here you’re invited to help yourself to great tranches of mango, pineapple and papaya, and there are stylish hot treats, like eggs Benedict with smoked salmon. Harney teas come in a pot, and there are healthy options like yoghurt and granola. Start early, though, if you’re setting off on a trip at 8, as the service can be slow in the mornings.

You could also order drinks and snacks down at the vertiginous pool bar: there’s even a wet bar serving light lunches - all with magnificent views. Gourmet platters can be prepared to serve in your room on request; you can order items to be ready for your arrival such as fresh fruit and cheese, cold cuts and crackers. Room service is available 24 hours.