Greystoke Mahale
Mahale National Park, Tanzania
Primate paradise: fascinating chimpanzee tracking at one of the most stunning beach camps in Africa
Picture a beach as white and palm-fringed as a desert island, but
set on an inland lake with water as clear as Evian. Above loom
misty dark-green hills, the forest home of one of the world’s
last populations of wild chimpanzees. These chimps - our closest
relatives on earth - have been acclimatised to mankind over 40
years of research by a team of primatologists, and now allow humans
to approach within grinning distance.
On the shores of the lake sits an effortlessly stylish safari camp,
with a winged waterfront dining pavilion, six simply but
thoughtfully furnished bandas, dhows for trips on the
lake, and some of the most imaginative cuisine in Tanzania. It's
run by conservationists Doug and Magdalene Braum along very
eco-friendly lines, making as little impact on the surrounding
forest as possible. However much you've travelled before in your
life, this will blow your mind; and however much you travel
afterwards, the memories will never fade.
Reviewed by Gemma Pitcher
Last updated 14 February 2012
Highs
- Face-to-face encounters with wild chimpanzees in the tropical rainforest of Mahale Mountains National Park
- Swimming in the crystal-clear waters of the lake, or lounging on the white sand beach
- Sunset boat trips in the camp’s 45-foot sailing dhow
- Eating freshly caught sashimi on the boat’s deck, chased down with shots of finest vodka
Lows
- Trekking in search of the chimps often means a steep, hot walk of an hour or more
- New park regulations mean you can't go within 10 metres of the chimps, nor stay longer than an hour
- Getting there means a long flight in a small plane - tiring, expensive and (unless you charter your own plane) only twice a week in line with Tailormade Tours' set itineraries (Itinerary D)
