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Spanning Central America - south of Mexico, west of Belize and
north of Honduras and El Salvador - Guatemala is a wonderfully
diverse country, about the size of Ireland. South and west, the
agricultural Pacific coast rises to astonishing volcanic highlands,
with stunning lakes including Atitlan, cloud-forests, indigenous
villages and charming Spanish colonial towns like Antigua. The more
sparsely inhabited tropical lowlands in the north (Peten) and east
offer rainforests rich in wildlife, coffee plantations and
countless Maya archaeological sites like Tikal. The climate is
lovely and warm throughout the year, cooler in the highlands and
more humid in the lowlands.
Over half the population of thirteen million are descended from the
Maya who held sway in Central America until the Spanish
conquistadors arrived. For centuries there were turbulent clashes
between the Ladino (mixed Spanish descent) ruling classes and
marginalised indigenous peoples, most recently in the civil war
which ended with the 1996 Peace Accords. Both traditions are
visible throughout - from colourful Mayan markets, costumes and
fiestas, to the Hispanic plaza and whitewashed church in every
village. There is also a small Garifuna (or Black Carib) population
on the Atlantic coast, centred around Livingston. In our
experience, Guatemalans are unfailingly helpful and polite.
Guatemala is not renowned for its cuisine: a bit repetitive, though improving. Infrastructure is patchy off the beaten track. Buses (often noxiously fumed) on winding roads are the only way to get about. Despite the double coastline there's little in the way of beach culture. Locals are unlikely to speak English outside the main tourist centres. Try to learn some Spanish and don't forget your phrase book. Don't be surprised to find the prevailing culture rather macho. Women should not dress provocatively; men should never go shirtless. Although not exactly dangerous, you should observe basic security measures (take only enough money for the day, keep wallets out of sight).
Antigua:
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