Guatemala: Overview

Why go?

Spanning Central America - south of Mexico, west of Belize and north of Honduras and El Salvador - Guatemala is a wonderfully diverse country, about the size of Ireland. South and west, the agricultural Pacific coast rises to astonishing volcanic highlands, with stunning lakes including Atitlan, cloud-forests, indigenous villages and charming Spanish colonial towns like Antigua. The more sparsely inhabited tropical lowlands in the north (Peten) and east offer rainforests rich in wildlife, coffee plantations and countless Maya archaeological sites like Tikal. The climate is lovely and warm throughout the year, cooler in the highlands and more humid in the lowlands.

Over half the population of thirteen million are descended from the Maya who held sway in Central America until the Spanish conquistadors arrived. For centuries there were turbulent clashes between the Ladino (mixed Spanish descent) ruling classes and marginalised indigenous peoples, most recently in the civil war which ended with the 1996 Peace Accords. Both traditions are visible throughout - from colourful Mayan markets, costumes and fiestas, to the Hispanic plaza and whitewashed church in every village. There is also a small Garifuna (or Black Carib) population on the Atlantic coast, centred around Livingston. In our experience, Guatemalans are unfailingly helpful and polite.

Any Downsides?

Guatemala is not renowned for its cuisine: a bit repetitive, though improving. Infrastructure is patchy off the beaten track. Buses (often noxiously fumed) on winding roads are the only way to get about. Despite the double coastline there's little in the way of beach culture. Locals are unlikely to speak English outside the main tourist centres. Try to learn some Spanish and don't forget your phrase book. Don't be surprised to find the prevailing culture rather macho. Women should not dress provocatively; men should never go shirtless. Although not exactly dangerous, you should observe basic security measures (take only enough money for the day, keep wallets out of sight).

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  Activities

* Spanish colonial history: explore UNESCO-listed Antigua, the former capital with a wealth of colonial archictecture. Look out for Guatemala's unique squat, Baroque-embellished churches.

* Lakes and volcanoes : Lago de Atitlan, framed by volcanoes and dubbed 'the most beautiful lake in the world', is a must. Semuc Champey is a spectacular staircase of turquoise pools suspended on a natural limestone bridge in the Alta Verapaz. Pacaya is the most accessible of three active volcanoes. You can bathe in hot springs in Rio Dulce, or take a boat down its gorge from Lago de Izabel to to the Caribbean coast.

* Indigenous culture: considered the strongest in central America, especially in the central and western highlands. The vibrant weekly markets are unmissable.

* Archaeological treasures: mostly found in Peten, their sheer quantity and scale is astonishing. Most famous is Tikal, where temples and pyramids rise out of tropical forest alive with birds and monkeys. Other sites include Yaxha, Ceibal, Uaxactan, Aguateca, Copan and remote El Mirador and Nakbe, accessible only by mule or helicopter.

* Shopping: buy a huge range of Mayan textiles, crafts, hammocks, clothes, jewellery, home furnishings, ceramics and folk art in the highlands, local handcrafts and carved woodwork in El Remate in Peten, antiques and art in Antigua. Best markets in Chichicastenango, Panajachel, Santiago, Antigua, Guatemala City. Bargaining is part of the fun.

* Wildlife: a tremendous array of animals and birds in some of Central America's best preserved rainforests: jaguar, ocelot, tapir, spider and howler monkeys, toucans, hummingbirds, parakeets and vultures, to name a few. Peten has the best of Guatemala's nature reserves.

* Adventure Activities: Go hiking, mountain biking or horse riding in the western highlands, best with a guide. Try deep sea fishing off the Pacific coast, kayaking or altitude diving in Lago de Atitlan. Take a canopy tour outside Tikal. Bathe in hot springs in Rio Dulce.
Overview
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What's Where
  Guatemala City
  Antigua
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  Lago de Atitlan
Background Info
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