Ha Mar ao Luar

Simple but stylish hideaway high on the hill above Setubal, with quirky self-catering accommodation and stunning views out to sea

The position here is faultless: high above the castle, with imperious views that stretch as far as the eye can see. Directly in front a thirty-mile crescent of sand curves south on the Tróia peninsular; to your left the Rio Sado sweeps west, carving out the odd lagoon before tumbling into the ocean. Sailing boats, cargo ships and ferries zip about; the historic port of Setúbal guards the banks three miles below.

Há Mar ao Luar ('moonlight-on-sea') is a quirky place with smart, homely interiors and a pool on a terrace. There are two suites in the main house, a windmill with staggering views, other cabins hidden away in the garden. All have small kitchens and breakfast is left in your fridge the night before, so get up whenever you want. You can walk down past the castle into the vibrant town, where ferries shuttle across to Tróia for beaches, Roman ruins, a golf course and bird watching. Head into the Arrábida hills and glimpse Lisbon in the distance, or drive along the coast for a string of fine beaches. Magical.

Highs

• Fabulous views of the estuary and ocean
• Quirky, good-value accommodation, with the option to self-cater
• We loved the casinha with its cosy terrace, and the windmill with its bed-with-a-view
• Setúbal for its old town; the peninsula for its wooded hills and secluded beaches

Lows

• Parts of the grounds are a little scruffy
• No freshly-squeezed juice at breakfast
• The night life is at the bottom of the hill
• Don’t expect hotel service, do expect peace and privacy at the top of a hill