Hacienda San Rafael

A fabulous cortijo-style hotel, just a hop away from Seville: a seductive fusion of traditional Andalucia with spicy, Eastern flavours

Beguiling San Rafael stands in glorious isolation between Seville and Jerez, amidst rolling fields of wheat, sunflower and cotton. The Reed family have owned this former olive farm for nearly a century and a half; the latest generation, Anthony and Patrick, have pulled it right to the top of the ‘hip hideaway’ rankings with a recent makeover. The feel-good factor cuts in from the moment you are greeted, at a bougainvillea-clad entrance portal, by one of the staff with a glass of chilled fino or, in the warmer months, with a fresh lime juice or iced lemongrass tea.

The 14 guest rooms and casitas are huge with a gorgeous commingling of antiques, modern art and base elements of the original cortijo: terracotta tile, wafer bricking, massively thick walls, shuttered windows. They have private terraces, rich fabrics and rugs, freshly cut flowers and sparkling, open-plan bathrooms. You are pampered at every turn - fabulous gardens, superb food and a choice of 3 pools secreted away amongst groves of lemon, pomegranate, olive, and carob. One of southern Spain’s most narcotic small hotels.

Highs

• Here guests come first and staff work around what you want; everybody gets VIP treatment at San Rafael
• Bedrooms, drawing rooms, and dining room are high on style and comfort - it's both luxurious and informal
• Choose between any number of different corners to chill: the Sunset or Lunar bar, your private terrace, a lounger in the shade of an olive tree
• The food and wine are excellent, with seasonal produce and Mediterranean style
• The Reed family have been fine-tuning their hotel for years; professionalism is manifest in every corner of the cortijo - they are constantly on the case

Lows

• San Rafael isn't cheap but the high price tag is more than justified
• You’ll need to jump in a car if you are planning to eat out: the size of the estate means local bars and restaurants aren’t within walking distance
• This part of Spain gets really hot in summer but the farm’s prominent position ensures it catches the breeze and the massively thick walls of the original hacienda keep temperatures at bay
• Although you’re out in the sticks, historic Seville, the sherry bodegas of Jerez, Doñana with its prolific birdlife and the Atlantic beaches are all an easy drive away