Hospes Palacio de los Patos

A restored mansion with a bold alabaster-and-glass wing, offering a choice of romantic or contemporary rooms in downtown Granada

Granada is full of charming Moorish-style hotels set around pretty courtyards in the Albaicin. But if you want something more à la mode, head down busy Calle Recogidas to the Hospes Palacio de los Patos. Away from the tourists but still only 10 minutes from the Cathedral and 15 from Plaza Nueva, this stunning 19th-century mansion looks from the outside like a very grand private residence (which indeed it used to be). But step into the patio, and a dazzlingly contemporary glass-and-alabaster annex sets it off like the Louvre with its pyramid.

Inside, it's the same bold mixture. The palacio's gracious marble staircase, trompe l'oeil ceilings, rose windows and tall wooden shutters (all beautifully restored) are the backdrop for some sharp 21st-century styling in the bedrooms (monochrome rugs, funky lighting, designer chaise-longues). In the modern wing, it's so cool, it's almost clinical. Linking it all together is a maze of bright white corridors, while the communal areas are split between the two parts. All in all, it’s a brave blend of elegant and edgy - and it works.

Highs

• We loved the beautiful rooms in the Palacio, with their big beds, high ceilings and enormous bathrooms
• Excellent (if eclectic) food, and utterly charming waiters
• Underground Bodyna spa with indulgent treatments, a swimming pool, sauna and jacuzzi
• The bold juxtaposition of architectural styles has won accolades from travel and architecture publications alike
• Perfect for trendy urban types and business travellers wanting the wow factor

Lows

• We found the annex rooms a bit bland - but it's all a matter of taste (Conde Nast loved them)
• The air con wasn’t great, and when we opened the window, we let in the street noise
• The subterranean corridors are a bit maze-like, and it's easy to get lost
• The hotel car park is expensive but this is standard for Granada