Hostal Sa Rascassa

Secluded restaurant-with-rooms in a killer location under pine trees, just steps from a stunning cove

Sa Rascassa has a lot to live up to: named as one of the best hotels in the world not once but twice, in 2010 and 2011, it's a big promise for a 5-roomed hostelry where the emphasis is on the food. Just what constitutes the accolade 'best hotel in the world' is up for grabs; in this case, it's the exceptional restaurant, and the location - on a pine-covered hill, 40m from a quiet unspoilt cove with clear water, and by coastal paths to superb nearby beaches. From your small and simply furnished room you can hear the waves lap on the shore.

The real highlight, though, is the restaurant, laid out under trees bedecked with fairylights, and overseen by the super-friendly owner Oscar and his expert staff. The menu is fabulous, with pear and walnut tarts and lobster and chicken bake among the Catalan favourites; wines are similarly up to par. In the peak of summer the restaurant also runs a beach bar, open until the sun drops into the silvery sea.

Highs

• The food is worth the drive alone, some of Catalonia's best, including straight-from-the-sea fish, grilled to perfection
• Fantastic sea views from the rooms terrace
• All you can hear are the birds in the trees and the waves lapping the shore; the ambiance is super relaxing
• Wonderful walks that lead out from the front door, and great snorkelling/diving in crystal-clear waters
• Owner Oscar is charming and helpful, stopping to chat with his guests over dinner, and pleased to give advice on the region to hotel guests

Lows

• Rooms are fairly basic (no plasma, no minibar, no aircon) but their price reflects this, and double beds are 2 singles pushed together
• No pool and there isn't much space to hang out here during the day (though a lounge is in the pipeline)
• Generally a 4-night minimum stay in July, 7 nights in August, but enquire if you want to come for a shorter length of time as they are flexible
• Nervous drivers might baulk at the steep road from Begur (3km), and the place feels slightly isolated
• You're left to your own devices from 4.30-7.30pm (this isn't a full-service hotel) but Oscar is at the end of a phone for emergencies