Hotel Altiplanico

Adobe village with a Balinese flavour, volcanic views, a lagoon-style pool and a community spirit, 1km from the tourist hub of San Pedro de Atacama

San Pedro de Atacama is hot. Not only because it sits on the edge of the Atacama Desert - one of the driest places in the world - but also because it’s now near the top of the list of must-sees for tourists travelling to Chile (visitor numbers have quadrupled in recent years). This means the quantity of restaurants, tour agencies and artisan shops has also increased (though the quality has too) - it’s become a busy little town, and Hotel Altiplánico is just the place to escape its pace.

Families, friends and sociable couples are quickly drawn into conversation at this unpretentious guest-village, 1km outside town. Rows of casitas with straw roofs and adobe towers, framed by fields of purple alfalfa buzzing with iridescent dragonflies, sit at the base of the altiplano (high plateau) - the dramatic middle-ground between the volcanic peaks of the Andes and the bone-dry landscapes of the Atacama. It's a perfect retreat to relax in between day trips to flamingo lakes and boiling geysers, sitting by the mirror-like pool with its commanding view of the 6,000m Licancabur volcano.

Highs

• This is a spacious, laid-back retreat away from San Pedro's tourist traffic, with a sociable pool-barbecue and family-friendly accommodation
• Everything - walls, windows, benches - is beautifully sculpted from adobe
• Rooms come in all shapes and sizes; each has a private terrace facing the Andes, and newer ones have an outdoor shower for washing à la belle étoile
• Inside, you'll find exotic Balinese handicrafts gathered by the ever-smiling manager Maria Angélica on her travels
• Thoughtful extras include all-day tea and coffee, and bagged breakfasts for pre-dawn excursions

Lows

• The dusty walk to San Pedro sometimes feels just a bit too long (15 minutes), particularly in the afternoon heat; you’ll need a torch (available from reception) after dark
• Prices for food and wine are slightly higher in San Pedro than in other places in Chile
• Service in the hotel’s dining room is smiley but a bit shaky, though a new chef has improved the food
• The rustic-funky décor and untamed landscaping may be too earthy for some, and there's no in-room TV, WiFi, minibar, air conditioning or ceiling fan