Hotel Antumalal

Classic luxury, an illustrious history and panoramic views of Lake Villarica make this old-timer a still-essential visit

Sepia photos in the entrance hall look like a cool interiors montage, until you realise the portraits and landscapes are a snapshot of the hotel's own story. Visiting dignitaries share space with vistas of an erupting Volcano Villarica, whose molten lava destroyed the owners' first hotel. A smiling Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillip, on a fishing holiday in 1968, take centre stage. And the story of how Guillermo and Catalina Pollak, immigrants from Czechoslovakia in 1938, persuaded the president of Chile to finance their hotel gives Antumalal a place in the country's history.

The hotel is now in the hands of Rony Pollak, the founders' daughter, and the emphasis on service and luxury remains. However, it's starting to attract a younger audience with a taste for adventure. Rooms have huge picture windows; airy living areas present a stylish combination of iron furniture, colourful cushions and goat skin rugs. A cosy bar comes complete with roaring hearth and leather chairs; the dining room and terrace overlook the beautiful grounds and Lake Villarica. Glorious.

Highs

• The stunning sunset over the lake, which gave Antumalal its name ('Corral of the Sun' in Mapuche)
• The abundance of flowers and 26 different species of native trees in the gardens - go in March to see trees festooned with copihue, the red bell-shaped national flower
• Delightfully low-key; it feels as though you could be in a friend's private house
• With a lake on your doorstep and volcanoes, hot springs, national parks and white-water rivers nearby, there's no shortage of outdoor activities
• Small but delightful details, such as a chocolate-covered strawberry left at turndown service
• Architecturally very interesting - a classic 50s Bauhaus design by Chilean architect Jorge Elton, which Wallpaper magazine declared 'retro chic'

Lows

• Although beautifully furnished and maintained, there's a slight sense of faded glory - the Queen's visit would have been during its heyday
• Some may find the exteriors reminiscent of a motel
• Go at the wrong time of year (April-October) and those fabulous surroundings might be marred by rain
• It seems a shame that bedrooms in the main hotel don't have balconies to maximise the views
• Some bedrooms in the chalets are small, with 2-3 single beds. Best for young children